If you ignore the question of the price of 2014 Bordeaux – though the subject is the elephant in the room in every salle de degustation you visit – and just look at the wines themselves, yesterday trips to nine properties on the northern left bank shows just how impressive 2014 is at the top level. In St Estèphe Montrose and Calon Ségur have both produced breathtaking wine – both have power, scale density and freshness in their different ways. Junior siblings here – Tronquoy-Lalande and Capbern [the Gasqueton has been dropped from the name] are both irresistible. Cos continues its thoughtful progression and has produced nicely measured and precise wines in the vintage [and Cos Blanc goes from strength to strength]. At Meyney, Montrose’s close neighbour, 2014 has produced a big, strapping wine full of extract and alcohol.

In St Julien Léoville Poyferré has produced a concentrated and serious wine with lots of potential; rival Léoville-Las-Cases has also produced something deep and concentrated with lots of blackcurrant freshness. Clos du Marquis is no slouch either here. The grand vin at Ducru-Beaucaillou has a boatload of blackcurrant fruit and impressive concentration but also lively acidity. Lalande Borie is a gem – and should prove good value.

At Mouton there is a lot of stalky blackcurrant fruit on display and freshness; good wines have been produced at Clerc Milon and d’Armailhac. At Lafite, Duhart Milon is a beauty with wonderfully refined aromatics and perfectly measured extraction. Lafite itself shows lots of cassis fruit and admirable concentration….these are the highlights. I will post in more detail later on these wines..meanwhile the UGC events start today and other tastings are booked in Margaux and later in Pessac-Léognan…