Wine Words & Video Tape

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Posts Tagged ‘Haut Médoc’

Bordeaux 2021 MW Institute Tasting Overview

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

I don’t mean to stick the boot in to 2021. It’s always a bit glib to cast off an entire vintage, especially given the effort the vignerons make year in, year out. The real problem for the 2021 reds is that they sit amid a sea of much better Bordeaux at comparable prices. Unless you find 2021s priced well below better recent vintages [2022, 2019 & 2018], 2021 is not a terribly appealing purchase right now for the reds. It is also a heterogeneous vintage. As I said in my earlier post, quite a few of the red wines tasted at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting in November 2025 finished a bit short, often showing some rusticity to the tannins. While there are many genuine successes, there are also quite a few misfires. A number also seem to have retreated in bottle too, shutting down such that the fruit has dipped and the structure remains exposed, with noticeable acidity and tannin on the palate.

Bordeaux 2024: Highlights so far

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

I’m still in the process of requesting samples from Bordeaux but I wanted to publish some overall thoughts and picks on the sixty wines sent by the Grand Cercle. These are mostly wines from the right bank, including a number of top St Emilion Grand Cru Classés, but also a fair number of Crus Bourgeois from the left bank’s Médoc and Haut-Médoc appellations. The highlights have been amongst the wines from St Emilion, but the few Pomerol’s I’ve had also look fresh and enticing. There are also promising wines from Blaye, Castillon and Fronsac too. I’ve been generally impressed by the harmony and freshness of wines on the left bank, with some attractive and vigorous wines from the Médoc. Overall, these are wines lower in alcohol than the recent stellar vintages in 2018, 2019 and 2022, owing to the vagaries of the 2024 growing season which was often humid threatening rot, wet at the wrong times, and lacking in sun. Nevertheless, despite the unpromising conditions, attention in the vineyard, strict selection and wise choices in the cellar have enabled the best and most diligent properties to pull a rabbit out of the proverbial hat. Below are the immediate picks from members of the Grand Cercle.

Bordeaux 2019 MW Institute: Haut-Médoc

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

There is always value to be had amongst the Haut-Médoc Crus Classés. While these are usually in the £30-35 [$39-$45] bracket now, in top vintages like 2019 they are still good buys. Four were shown by the MW Institute in late last year. Château Cantemerle was looking full of joy with wonderfully perfumed aromatics and lots of finesse on the palate. This is lovely now but will develop well over the next decade I’m sure. Château de Camensac is a property that I’m increasingly interested in. The approach to detail here is impressive and there has been steady improvement here over the last couple of decades since it was bought by the Merlaut family [owners of Château Gruaud Larose amongst others]. This is savoury, thoughtful Bordeaux which has a beautiful seam of blackcurrant fruit coherently running through it. It is already drinking well but has the balance to age. Château Belgrave looks to be chunky currently in a rather tannic style. If you have bought any of this it certainly needs a few more years in bottle, but it usually develops well. The 2010 tasted recently was in good shape. Last on show was Château La Lagune. I’ve had great bottles of this in 2005 and 2009. This was also a little backward on the day, with subdued aromatics but the palate was very textured and satisfying with plenty of mid-palate concentration and some length. It should certainly be very good with a couple more years in bottle, or a few hours in a decanter if broached now.

Bordeaux 2019: MW Institute Tasting Overview

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

Bordeaux 2019, released in the height of the pandemic in June 2020, was perhaps the last sensibly priced vintage from the region. The quality also seemed great. Early on for me it had the poise of the 2016 combined with the richness and flamboyance of the 2009 with greater freshness. There were scores of impressive wines across all appellations, red and white [and sweet]. With the price hikes here with the exceptional 2022s, the 2019 vintage still appears pretty good value. What’s more the wines are drinking well. In October 2023 the MW Institute put on its annual tasting of ninety top wines and very few seem to have shut down [which isn’t the case with 2018s which have crept into their shells]. The quality too has held up in bottle and the vintage seems to have genuinely delivered on its primeurs promise. So, all in all, what’s not to like about this vintage?

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