In the Haut-Médoc, the 2017 vintage doesn’t quite play as well as perhaps I’d hoped back in 2018 during my primeurs tastings. A lot of sites inland from the Gironde, such as Listrac and Moulis, suffered from the April frosts, and this has obviously affected the choices of blending elements, as well as volumes [as elsewhere in Bordeaux in this vintage]. I’m a great fan of these two appellations as sources of good value, vigorous wines, that have plenty of zap and life. Unfortunately, there is a certain angularity to some of the wines here in 2017. While the best terroirs have made the best wines here – Château Poujeaux is the most convincing – 2017 is not a vintage to particularly seek out here over 2009, 2010, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2018. All these vintages are fuller and more complete than 2017.

The following notes were taken in October 2019 at the annual Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux event in London.

Château Clarke, Listrac, 2017

Mid depth; bit of chalk; some wet rock and black fruits beneath with some plum tones; more depth here than at Fonréaud. Gutsy for the vintage. Fresh finish. Drink 2023-2027. 87

Château Fonréaud, Listrac, 2017

Mid depth; purple edge; blackcurrant, some cassis and pain grillé tones; soft and easy and unforced. Will develop early and already drinking well. Drink 2023-2027. 85

Château Fourcas Dupré, Listrac, 2017

Mid depth; quite translucent at edge; some oak and light blackcurrants on the aromatics; some grip on the palate but feels somewhat austere; fresh acidity and not puckering on the finish. Drink 2023-2027. 86

Château Fourcas Hosten, Listrac, 2017

Mid depth; light purple hue at edge; earthier; more lift and rounder on the nose than the others; nice texture on the palate; some leafy blackcurrant notes; has more to the palate in this vintage than the Dupré. Best of Listrac in 2017. 88+

Château Chasse-Spleen, Moulis, 2017

Mid depth; light at edge; light blackcurrant aromatics; some wet rock; fresh and light on the palate and feels a little pinched at the end and somewhat angular. Drink 2022-2028. 86

Château Maucaillou, Moulis, 2017

Earthy red; translucent at edge; ripe fruit; some plum and oak lift; attractive; fresh palate and some oak to integrate; fresh and clean on the finish. Drink 2023-2028. 87

Château Poujeaux, Moulis, 2017

Deeper looking; dark at centre; cassis and berry notes on the aromatics; comparatively deep too with some savoury elements; palate has similar notes with a saline touch. There is some chew to the tannins but this wine has the structure and freshness to age. Drink 2025-2032. 89+