Moulis and Listrac are two of my favourite appellations in Bordeaux for value. The wines have a reputation for being full-flavoured and gutsy but the top wines have as much finesse as the Haut-Médoc classed growths. 2012 looks to have produced good wines in these districts. Though they are not the show-stoppers of 2009 and 2010, they seem to have more harmony than 2007, 2011 and 2013 and are more forward and immediately enjoyable than 2008 was at the same stage. The stand-out for me this year across both appellations was Château Maucaillou which has produced a delicious wine. Château Poujeaux, Château Fourcas Hosten and Château Fourcas Dupré also look successful in 2012.

Goodish wines have been made at Château Clarke [Listrac], nicely judged in the vintage context, and at Château Chasse-Spleen [Moulis] which is elegant and spicy, if light and a little clipped on the finish. Château Fonréaud [Listrac] was a short and astringent and you’d be better off seeking out their 2009s or 2010s.

Château Poujeaux [Moulis] was, by its own high standards, a little subdued but the elements are all there and this often a long-term wine. Château Fourcas Hosten and Château Fourcas Dupré [both from Listrac] are extremely reliable wines and both have produced wines of purity in 2012. Hosten has the edge by a fraction but I’d happily drink both. But it’s Château Maucaillou [Moulis] that looks the real gem here. It’s delicious already but it has the depth and substance to take a bit of age if you desire.

The following seven wines were tasted at the UGCB event in Covent Garden last month.

LISTRAC

Château Clarke

Mid depth; attractive ripe and plummy aromatics; some spices and freshness; soft palate; easy; perhaps lacks a little texture but round and easy. Nicely judged in vintage context. Drink 2015-2022. 86

Château Fonréaud

Mid depth; dark core; inky; some liquoirce and chocolate; spicy blackcurrant fruit tones; lacks a little concentration and a little astringent on the finish. Drink 2015-2020. 83

Château Fourcas Dupré

Mid depth; fresh and more spicy and lifted than Fonréaud; red fruits and blackcurrant tones; plums and blackcurrants with a spicy overlay on the palate; nice; round and harmonious wine. Drink 2015-2025. 87

Château Fourcas Hosten

Mid depth; quite bold; some spice and fresh blackcurrant tones; soft and easy on the palate – full of fruit and quite round and approachable for this estate. Drink 2015-2025. 88

MOULIS

Château Chasse-Spleen

Mid depth – dark core; fresh blackcurrant aromatics; clean with some spice and dust; mid weight palate [fraction light?] with elegance and fresh acid. Perhaps a fraction clipped at the end but not astringent. Drink 2016-2025. 86

Château Maucaillou

Deep and saturated looking; earthy blackcurrant tones; some spice; good solid aromatic profile; attractive fruit on the palate; nicely handled in the cellar; full and tasty. This is an excellent showing and has lots of flesh for the vintage. Drink now-2025. 89+

Château Poujeaux

Deep and saturated look; tight to the edge; saline/salty edge to the aromatics; minerals; chew and extract on the palate; gutsy with mineral and wet rock tones. Tannins ripe and nicely handled. Lacks a bit of expression for Poujeaux but possibly needs a little time to show its best. Drink 2017-2027. 88