Bordeaux Primeurs 2022: Côtes de Bordeaux
There’s no doubt that the high pricing of many top Bordeaux 2022’s has been a disappointment in this en primeur cycle, regardless of the quality of the wine on offer. If like me you’re looking for good Bordeaux at a reasonable price, then there are definitely some Côtes de Bordeaux to consider in 2022. At the Grand Cercle tasting back in April, there was some variation. A few were rather ponderous and overripe with somewhat chewy tannins. Clearly the heat and drought proved tricky to manage for some. That said several showed really well. These wines exhibited greater freshness and life. My picks were Château Veyry and Clos Puy Arnaud in Castillon, Château Réaut and Château Reynon in Cadillac and Château Haut Bertinerie in Blaye. In earlier notes I have also posted on an extremely impressive Château d’Aiguilhe in Castillon.
The following notes were taken on 22nd April 2023 at the Grand Cercle tasting held at Château de La Dauphine with the exception of Château d’Aiguilhe which was tasted at Château Canon La Gaffelière.
Château Ad Francos, Francs – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and concentrated looking; very saturated; super ripe notes; some marzipan; lifted and sweet; tarry; ripe and thick; lots of fruit; full bodied; spices; chewy; tannins a little angular and dry. Should settle but on the ripe side. Drink 2025-2030. 85-87
Château Ampélia, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep coloured; red at edge bit looser; black cherry; some plum; ripe; sweet; some fig; quite fat; lacks a bit of interest on the palate; bit flabby; some oak to integrate; lacks freshness and a little ponderous. Tails off. Drink 2025-2031. 85-87
Château Carat de Réaut, Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and tight to the rim; bold colour; sat and dark; attractive black cherry, ripe plum and schist; plump and bright fruit on the palate; low acid style but attractive; lacks a bit of freshness and dips a bit at the end. Little chew on the finish. Quite dry tannin. Needs to settle. Drink 2025-2032. 87-89
Château Carignan, Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and arterial; saturated colour; nutty note; dark chocolate; black cherry fruit beneath; chewy; quite chunky; some chocolate notes; lacks sophistication. Chewy. Opened up in glass but still lacks a bit of brightness. Drink 2025-2030. 84-86
Château Côte Monpezat, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep again; saturated; little dumb to start with; evident depth but closed; plenty of oomph; rather large wall of fruit; little monolithic; a mouthful with some oak. Drink 2025-2030 85-87
Château d’Aiguilhe, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and attractive; legs; black and smoky fruits; lovely delicacy; beautiful fruit; plush; saline; lovely entry; very pretty on the palate but this wine has lots of depth; nice texture and firm at the end. Lots of juice and freshness. Lovely Aiguilhe. [90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 30% new oak, 14.3% alc, 35hl/ha]. Drink 2027-2040. 93-95+
Château de Laussac, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep; little looser at edge; little dumb; some morello cherry and saline notes; less expressive – duller: bit dank sample; little flat; lacks life; some cherry but alcohol and feels a bit hollow in the middle. Drink 2025-2030. 84-86
Château de Laussac, Cuvée Sacha, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep; medicinal notes; camphor; some ink; mid weight; lacks the interest of the best but has some freshness; spices and medicinal notes. It should settle well. Drink 2025-32. 86-88+
Château Haut Bertinerie, Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Mid depth; legs; some briary spicy fruit; cherry and plum; attractive; salty aspect; attractive palate; nice elegance and texture; like the balance here; very fine and attractive; perhaps a bit soft but quite delicious fruit. Lacks a bit of zip on the finish but this works well. Drink 2025-2032. 89-91+
Château Haut Coulon, Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep; colour close to edge; little dumb; some wet rock; some saline notes; opens up; some black cherry notes; quite; some minerality; [little oak influence on the nose which needs to integrate]; black cherry; sawn wood notes; bit chunky; needs to settle but had all the elements. Mineral finish. Drink 2025-2032. 86-88
Château Réaut, Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and dark; saturated look and tight to the rim; purple edge; bright blueberry; plum fruits; attractive; emphasis here is on joyful, attractive fruit; whole berry ferment style; has density and black fruits; quite caressing; a mouthful; quite fresh on the palate. Some crunch. Needs to settle. Little dry on the finish but élevage should sort that out. Drink 2025-2030 89-91+
Château Reynon, Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and saturated; colour very tight to the edge; bright purple; deep core; attractive, sweet plums and black cherry; like this; very polished; joyful; caressing purity on the palate; sweet and violet like; really like the balance here; emphasis on purity; some freshness on the end. Like this very much. Drink 2025-2032. 90-92+
Château Veyry, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and dark – closer to the edge; legs; oak influence; worked; some spice; cherry; quite pretty seam of fruit; nicely layered; some black cherry; more structured; this works; more texture on the palate with some freshness. Better narrative. Chunky tannins. Some saline. Drink 2025-2032. 88-90+
Clos Puy Arnaud, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022
Deep and concentrated looking; colour tight to the rim; very layered and tight on the nose; tarry; thick; little porty; definitely liquorice; asphalt; ripe and thick entry; tarry palate; quite thick but not too ponderous. Nicely done some saline and fresh on the end. More structured. Drink 2025-2033. 91-93+
Tags: Blaye, Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2022, Cadillac, Castillon, Château Ad Francos, Chateau Ampélia, Château Carat de Réaut, Chateau Carignan, Château Côte Monpezat, Chateau d’Aiguilhe, Chateau de Laussac, Chateau Haut Bertinerie, Château Haut Coulon, Château Réaut, Chateau Reynon, Chateau Veyry, Clos Puy Arnaud, Côtes de Bordeaux, Cuvée Sacha, Francs