I’ve been following Château Berliquet, Château Larcis Ducasse and Château Pavie-Macquin closely for the past half dozen vintages, properties all managed by Nicolas Thienpont. It was interesting to look at the wines in more detail back in April at a tasting held at Pavie-Macquin with Cyrille Thienpont and David Suire. Along with the 2013s shown, we had another look at 2011 in bottle and, fascinatingly, a decade on, the 2004s. There was also the opportunity to taste Chateau Beauséjour [héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse] 2013, 2011 and 2004, a property which the Thienponts have been managing since 2009.
Posts Tagged ‘St Emilion Grand Cru Classé’
A lorry carrying 18 000 bottles from Château La Dominique in Saint-Emilion tipped over on Tuesday, when the driver apparently lost control of his vehicle at a roundabout in Bigaroux. The bottles of grand cru classé Château La Dominique 2011, which spilled into a road-side field and appeared to be without labels, were to be collected by hand according to reports in local newspaper Sud-Ouest.
Overall St Emilion is something of a mixed bag in 2013. Quality is better than you might expect given the dreadful vintage, conditions that were especially tricky for Merlot, the district’s principal grape. It was badly affected by poor weather at flowering, which reduced yields and led to poor fruit set; later the humid conditions at vintage and the threat and rapid onset of rot [botrytis] also adversely affected the variety. Still St Emilion has made a number of attractive and well-made wines. But there are plenty of disappointments too. Some are thin and over-worked; others hollow. Quality follows terroir and those with cash. The best wines have forward and attractive fruit flavours and some are competitively priced. While it’s a complex picture, overall the wines of St Emilion are probably a more immediately appealing and joyous bunch than their left-bank counterparts in 2013.
Château Canon has made refined and voluptuous wine in 2013. It always relies on purity and balance rather than exotic dances to entice. I’m intrigued by these parades just as much as anyone, of course, [there’s room for all!] but it has to be said there is something about the class and the finesse that stands out like a beacon at Canon pretty much year in, year out. On the mid palate this wine is very nicely done indeed and in that respect it reminds me of Clos Fourtet. What’s more Canon has been released at a sensible price [around £370/$620 per dozen], fractionally lower than the current cost of a case of the 2007 [2013 is clearly superior]. So is this top-notch Bordeaux to seriously consider this year?