Pauillac in 2013 reminds me of a lesser version 2011. Sound like faint praise? Given the extremely challenging vintage conditions this is a success. There are some very good wines here; some are good values too. Others are a little compact and there is a degree of austerity to a few. Partly this is because of the increased percentages [even for Pauillac] of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blends, partly perhaps also because of less than fully ripe tannin, partly too the combined affect of very fresh acids this year, more so than 2011, 2008 and 2007, the vintages to which 2013 has been already been compared.

Maybe Château Latour has the edge over Lafite and Mouton in 2013 amongst the first growths. As the property has opted out of the en primeur system the wine is not available for sale, but the samples shown by the estate this April looked composed, linear on the palate and correct. The freshness and elegance of 2013 comes through, and while alcohols are comparatively low, there seems a fraction more substance and density here than at the other Pauillac properties. I’ll report in more detail on the current offerings of the château in a later post: 2004 Latour, 2006 Les Forts and 2008 Pauillac.

Château Mouton Rothschild has made sturdy Pauillac in 2013. There is plenty of blackcurrant fruit, weight, and almost generosity here, although it finishes a fraction hard currently. Le Petit Mouton has attractive blackcurrant tones though it is not the beauty the 2012 was at the same stage – different vintage, different wines. The real delight here in 2013 is Aile d’Argent. This is one of the white wines of the vintage for me. While white is obviously not the main event here, it certainly stole the show.

Château Lafite-Rothschild has produced pure, classical Pauillac in 2013. It’s very high in Cabernet Sauvignon [98%] which makes it a little more austere on the palate, but there is obvious gravity and intensity here too, if also plenty of sappy acidity. It will need a bit of time to knit together. Certainly it speaks of the vintage. Château Duhart-Milon is a good effort. There is a slightly earthier note [which recalls their 1997] but also blackcurrant and graphite tones. There is a lttle dryness to the tannins and plenty of sappy acidity. Likewise Carruades de Lafite is similarly styled, if slightly looser on the finish. There are more plummy fruit tones [29% Merlot] and the wine is softer overall. Again 2013 freshness comes through in the vibrant acidity.