Didier Cuvelier and his team have fashioned something intense and structured at Château Léoville Poyferré in 2013. It is a serious effort that will be more long-term than most. Château Le Moulin Riche, their second St Julien property [not to be confused with Pavillon de Poyferré, the second wine here] is creamy and polished. There’s still some wood to integrate on the palate but there is quite a bit of blackcurrant fruit.
Château Léoville Poyferré looks very mannered and polished in 2012. The fact that they have managed to wrestle something as refined as they have in this challenging year reflects their exceptional terroir, clearly a huge amount of effort in the vineyard and great attention to detail in the cellar. The results are what Didier Cuvelier describes as 1999 ‘plus, plus’, a wine of surprising concentration and style.
St Julien didn’t quite knock me out in 2010 as it did in 2009 but then that was an amazing, atypical year. And that doesn’t mean that this isn’t a great vintage here or that the quality is uneven. The appellation remains the benchmark for homogeneity. Great wines have been produced at Chateau Léoville-Las-Cases and Chateau Léoville Poyferré, both terrific are. Chateau Gruaud Larose is also looking wonderful in 2010, as good, but different from 2009 in fact. Chateau St Pierre also looks strong very strong. Still there is a lot of grip here, even the best wines, so fresh was the acidity and considerable the tannin in this fascinating vintage.
Didier Cuvelier is understandably proud of his 2010 Léoville Poyferré. He describes it as ‘2005, plus, plus’. It is a great wine. There is remarkable purity, concentration and depth on the mid-palate and terrific length. It’s in a more classical style than 2009, overall less knockout than I remember the 2009 was at the same stage but it is extremely good. Overall I tasted it three times last week and marked it between 94-97/100. Either way, lower figure or higher, it will turn out to be a great wine. Chateau Moulin Riche was less fabulous for me than the 2009 here, but it is still a very good wine, not a second wine [that is Pavillon de Poyferré] but an individual 22 hectare terroir in St Julien itself.
