2014’s Indian summer looks to have proved very successful for the quality of the Médoc vintage and its raft of enjoyable crus bourgeois [tasted at Château d’Arsac in photo]. There are plenty of properties to recommend here. It is a vintage that suits the virtues of the appellation. The wines are vigourous, as you’d expect, but also with considerable depth of fruit and concentration. They offer medium term prospects for the cellar [long term in certain cases] but their aromatic complexity and freshness will make them enjoyable early on. Yields are down for some properties, particularly those who suffered from the catastrophic hailstorm of early June. Without a doubt, qualitatively speaking 2014 is the best vintage here since 2010. It is particularly successful for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varieties.
Posts Tagged ‘Chateau Rollan de By’
Thursday’s 2014 primeurs tastings started at Château Latour and the wines showed impressive blackcurrant purity and freshness. Since Latour have withdrawn from the primeurs system, the current releases were also on show including their wonderful 2003 [more on this later]. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste has also produced very refined and balanced wines in 2014 [including Haut-Batailley]. Lynch Moussas held the UGC tastings for St Estèphe and Pauillac. Top for me amongst the Pauillacs were Batailley, Lynch-Bages and an excellent Pichon Baron. In St Estèphe, Lafon Rochet is full and harmonious and Ormes de Pez concentrated. There was inconsistency in a few others, with hard tannins in some. At Pontet-Canet the chais was packed with visitors and the wine was round and vivacious. Pichon Lalande too has succeeded with a powerful wine with attractive fragrance. Cabernet has certainly done well in the Left Bank this year.
A dozen 2013 Médoc cru bourgeois and others tasted during primeurs week in April were generally light, fresh and vigorous. Château Potensac stands out as a genuine success. It’s a good wine and excellent in the vintage context. Goulée, by the ambitious team at Cos d’Estournel, is also vibrant and refreshing. Château Patache d’Aux, Château La Tour de By, Château Les Ormes Sorbet, Château Loudenne and Château Blaignan are also successful for the vintage.
Less joy for me in this appellation in 2010 than in 2009s. The latter look more seductive and wondrous by comparison. Only a few estates have produced wines of comparable quality in my mind, Chateau Belgrave and especially Chateau Cantemerle spring to mind. Chateau La Lagune is also very good. I expected more from Chateau La Tour Carnet but there is just too much Magrez make-up [ie new oak] and the pedal feels pushed right to the floor. Overall there is a lot of dry tannin and grip dominating the fruit in a great many cases. They will settle of course but I’d opt for any remaining 2009s still on the market now. You could be taking delivery of these next year and be drinking them from the off. As good as some are in 2010 you’ll be waiting an age for them to settle. It’s a case of chalk and cheese.