Let’s not beat about the bush. St Emilion has had a glorious vintage in 2015. I think I’ve scored it even more highly than 2010 in many cases. It’s a different beast of course – in fact more of a beauty. There is a supple quality to the fruit, a seductive aspect. It makes so many of the wines delicious. If they don’t have the prodigious densities achieved in 2010, that’s not a bad thing. Many of these wines are caressing and voluptuous. There’s more apparent freshness too than in 2009. There are far fewer of the jammy over-ripe qualities that affected some wines here that year. I think I’m also detecting a perceptible shift in winemaking emphasis on the right bank too. This new paradigm hasn’t quite arrived everywhere, but I think we are starting to witness the positive results of changes in the approach and sophistication of vineyard management [and an increasing movement to organic methods], harvesting at better combined ripeness [not over-ripeness] and greater sensitivity in the cellar in terms of extraction. For me there is no doubt that these 2015 St Emilions are the most attractively styled primeur wines I’ve yet had from this varied and fascinating appellation.
Posts Tagged ‘Château Quinault Enclos’
You would expect Château Cheval Blanc to have produced something impressive in 2015 – and it has. Finesse, elegance and balance are three principle characteristics of Cheval Blanc perhaps in any year but especially so in 2015. It has a prettiness which isn’t coquettish, a density which isn’t overblown and a delicacy that is enticing. There is length too. Despite the elegance the wine weighs in at 14 degrees. The harmony exhibited says a lot about the terroir, the approach but also the year. Like 2010, and to an extent 2011, the fruit in 2015 was the result of the seasons ‘cool’ maturity, ripening in a largely dry but not overly hot September. The resulting wine has beauty. It reminds me of a modern rendition of their 1985. The extent to which the vineyard was in harmony is indicated by the fact that the property produced no Petit Cheval [the second wine] this year. All but two vineyard plots made the final blend [39 plots] of the grand vin.