Cheval Blanc’s managing director Pierre Lurton describes the 2010 vintage as one of ‘cool maturity’, a vintage that allowed for the steady build up and accumulation of flavour and alcohol without plunging acids. Nights in late August at Cheval Blanc were distinctly cool, down to 5C on occasion. ‘It was like keeping the grapes in the fridge overnight’ said technical director Pierre Olivier Clouet. Certainly the vintage conditions have enabled Cheval Blanc to make impressive wines. Grand Cru Classe Chateau La Tour du Pin has been managed by the team here since 2006 and was also shown. The vineyards of this eight hectare estate are planted on a mix of gravel and sandy soil overlying clay and lie close to Cheval Blanc.

Jean-Guillaume Prats got into a lot of trouble last year with his 2009 Cos d’Estournel. Some critics thought it was over-the-top, too alcoholic and far too much of a good thing. Others, Robert Parker included, thought it close to perfection. For me the wine tasted last November looked brilliant. The 2010 is, in fact, identical in alcoholic content to 2009, but it does manage a little more freshness and grip – though that is relative.

Didier Cuvelier is understandably proud of his 2010 Léoville Poyferré. He describes it as ‘2005, plus, plus’. It is a great wine. There is remarkable purity, concentration and depth on the mid-palate and terrific length. It’s in a more classical style than 2009, overall less knockout than I remember the 2009 was at the same stage but it is extremely good. Overall I tasted it three times last week and marked it between 94-97/100. Either way, lower figure or higher, it will turn out to be a great wine. Chateau Moulin Riche was less fabulous for me than the 2009 here, but it is still a very good wine, not a second wine [that is Pavillon de Poyferré] but an individual 22 hectare terroir in St Julien itself.

Last year Chateau Montrose acquired 20 hectares of vines from Chateau Phélan Ségur, vineyards adjoining Montrose but which were in fact once part of the estate in the 19^th century. This has, in effect, reunited Montrose into one single 90 hectare vineyard surrounding the chateau and the chais. It’s a beautiful spot, quiet and tranquil, looking down out across the Gironde, a much more reclusive place than that of Chateau Cos d’Estournel which grabs your attention on the D2 road that first brings you into the St Estephe appellation. For me Montrose this year just has the edge over Cos. There is something extraordinary about Montrose 2010 to my palate. It has really vibrant, fresh aromatic qualities and wonderful concentration.