Once again there is a silky and Burgundian quality to the 2014 offering from pioneering bio-dynamic Pauillac producer Château Pontet-Canet. Much work here goes into not doing much work, if you get my drift. It’s not that there isn’t a lot going on or that they are not busy, but the holistic approach pursued at Pontet-Canet has that objective in mind. Vineyard balance is attained with the long view, through the use preventative preparations, horsepower and manual effort, not cajoling the vineyard with exaggerated regimes and petrochemicals, so that the vines find that gentle sweet spot of expression and harmony themselves. You can feel the philosophy in the unhurried, peaceful manner of the place when you are there [even in primeurs week, though perhaps not in the visiting merchants and critics]. And there’s no doubt the wine feels all the better for it.
On my visit I also had the opportunity to taste the 2008 vintage again. This is a wine that goes on from strength to strength. It retains the classic blackcurrant and graphite character of Pauillac, but is so caressing and glossy on the palate. Thinking on its development I’m almost certain I’m underrating the 2014 at this stage, but let’s wait and see. In terms of pricing, it’s first release prices was less expensive than the second tranche. Liv-Ex analysis can be found here.
Château Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2014
Deep bold colour; saturated; tight to the rim; healthy look; cassis; blackcurrant notes; ripe and full; little menthol and spice; round, full and generous on the palate; another Burgundian rendition of Pauillac here; lovely texture; creamy fruit; nicely fresh; very round and generous overall; supple quality to the tannins. Slips down a treat. [65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alc]. Drink 2020-2035. 93-95+
Château Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2008
Deep and intense looking; graphite, blackcurrant; lift; menthol and spices too; great aromatics; lovely glossy quality to it; melding really nicely and for those that like their wines in early maturity, this wine is almost spot-on; enticing palate; with blackcurrant tones; plenty of fruit; very caressing on the palate; tannin sweet and ripe. Great stuff! Drink 2015-2035. Tasted on 2 April, 2015 at Pontet-Canet. 96+
Tags: 2008, Alfred Tesseron, Biodynamics, Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2014, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau Pontet Canet, Grand Cru Classé, Jean Michel Comme, Melanie Tesseron, Merlot, Pauillac, Petit Verdot