Château Mouton Rothschild has made sturdy Pauillac in 2013. There is plenty of blackcurrant fruit, weight, and almost generosity here, although it finishes a fraction hard currently. Le Petit Mouton has attractive blackcurrant tones though it is not the beauty the 2012 was at the same stage – different vintage, different wines. The real delight here in 2013 is Aile d’Argent. This is one of the white wines of the vintage for me. While white is obviously not the main event here, it certainly stole the show.

Château Lafite-Rothschild has produced pure, classical Pauillac in 2013. It’s very high in Cabernet Sauvignon [98%] which makes it a little more austere on the palate, but there is obvious gravity and intensity here too, if also plenty of sappy acidity. It will need a bit of time to knit together. Certainly it speaks of the vintage. Château Duhart-Milon is a good effort. There is a slightly earthier note [which recalls their 1997] but also blackcurrant and graphite tones. There is a lttle dryness to the tannins and plenty of sappy acidity. Likewise Carruades de Lafite is similarly styled, if slightly looser on the finish. There are more plummy fruit tones [29% Merlot] and the wine is softer overall. Again 2013 freshness comes through in the vibrant acidity. 

For me St Julien performed better than expected in 2013. Things were a little drier here than elsewhere in the Médoc and perhaps this, combined with the typical homogeneity of the appellation, has made the wines  close to satisfying. Depending on the estate, the quality probably lies somewhere between the 2011 and 2007 vintages, perhaps even toward 2008 in a few cases. Château Léoville-Las-Cases, Château Léoville Poyferré and Château Ducru-Beaucaillou top the appellation. There are good efforts too from siblings Château Léoville Barton and Château Langoa Barton, as well as Château Branaire-Ducru. Overall there’s plenty of grip and sap to the wines, some are chewy currently, but in general they should work out in the medium term.

Château Léoville-Las-Cases looks impressive in 2013. It is one of the wines of the vintage on the left bank. Pure, almost opulent, it is a pretty bold statement. Clos du Marquis looks very promising too and this St Julien offers good value for the quality. The talk at the Domaines Delon group that owns Las-Cases, and also Château Potensac in the Médoc and Château Nénin in Pomerol, is that the 2013 vintage in St Julien perhaps resembles 2004 and 2008 for them.