St Julien in 2019 is a study in consistency and finesse. These have been stylish and impressive wines from the start, but are beginning to hit their stride. Nine wines were shown by the MW Institute back in late 2023. The major omissions were Château Ducru Beaucaillou and Château Léoville Las Cases [normally shown at this annual tasting]. Otherwise, all the top crus classés were represented. The wines from Château Gruaud Larose, Château Léoville Barton and Château Léoville Poyferré impressed the most, but there are excellent wines too from Château Branaire-Ducru, Château Lagrange, Château Langoa Barton, Château St Pierre and Château Talbot. On the day Château Beychevelle was lush and polished but it lacked a bit of grip and freshness compared to the others. The blend at Beychevelle is Merlot dominant, while the other St Juliens tasted were all significantly Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, which might explain this stylistic difference.

The MW Institute usually has a good spread of wines from Margaux on show at its annual Bordeaux event. Seventeen 2019s were on tasting and generally impressed. While this appellation is quite large and covers varied terroirs, the qualitative heterogeneity of the appellation has lessened in the past decade. Gentler approaches in the cellar and better understanding in the vineyard and a move to earlier picking have all contributed to this improvement. There is greater emphasis on the purity of fruit and freshness, and it is evident in the wines in 2019. Undoubtedly Château Margaux has produced one of the wines of the vintage. It is already spellbinding in its aromatics and in its balance. Phenomenal. The line-up was sadly sans Château Palmer and the next best contender, and really not that far off the pace of Château Margaux, was Château Rauzan Ségla. Initially this was less forthcoming in the glass but it opened up wonderfully. Excellent wines has been made once again at Château Brane Cantenac. This property is supremely consistent and their 2019 ranks alongside super efforts here in 2016 and 2018. Château Giscours has put together, for me, its best ever recent wine. It is a beauty with terrific purity. Just behind these are very good wines from Château Cantenac Brown [showing increased finesse over previous vintages], Château d’Issan [full of promise but backward], Château Kirwan, Château Lascombes [full and lush as usual] and a fresh and vigorous Château Durfort-Vivens.

There is always value to be had amongst the Haut-Médoc Crus Classés. While these are usually in the £30-35 [$39-$45] bracket now, in top vintages like 2019 they are still good buys. Four were shown by the MW Institute in late last year. Château Cantemerle was looking full of joy with wonderfully perfumed aromatics and lots of finesse on the palate. This is lovely now but will develop well over the next decade I’m sure. Château de Camensac is a property that I’m increasingly interested in. The approach to detail here is impressive and there has been steady improvement here over the last couple of decades since it was bought by the Merlaut family [owners of Château Gruaud Larose amongst others]. This is savoury, thoughtful Bordeaux which has a beautiful seam of blackcurrant fruit coherently running through it. It is already drinking well but has the balance to age. Château Belgrave looks to be chunky currently in a rather tannic style. If you have bought any of this it certainly needs a few more years in bottle, but it usually develops well. The 2010 tasted recently was in good shape. Last on show was Château La Lagune. I’ve had great bottles of this in 2005 and 2009. This was also a little backward on the day, with subdued aromatics but the palate was very textured and satisfying with plenty of mid-palate concentration and some length. It should certainly be very good with a couple more years in bottle, or a few hours in a decanter if broached now.

A relatively small spread of 2018s were on show at the MW Institute back in late ’22. There is evidence that some of the wines shown were shutting down a little. This was certainly true of Château Angélus, Château Cheval Blanc and Château Fonplégade on the basis of the tasting. Château Troplong Mondot ’18 lies somewhere between its almost over-the-top past and a more elegant future. Under the tenure of Aymeric de Gironde since 2017 it now most definitely driven by the emphasis on finesse and poise, but this ’18 feels a little closer to the former than the latter. Château Figeac is clearly on a roll. The wines in recent vintages here have been breath-taking, but so too is the asking price these days. Domaine Dillon’s Château Quintus has yet to really grab me to be honest. On the showing at this tasting the wine was of almost Zinfandel-like portiness. The 15.5% alcohol is very noticeable.