There was some variation amongst the 2014 Lalande de Pomerol’s tasted in Bordeaux last month. A number are extremely impressive. Top of the list here would be Château La Fleur de Boüard [and sibling Le Plus], Domaines des Sabines and Château Les Vieux Ormes. I also enjoyed the tension and elegance in Château Siaurac, the grit and chew of Château de Chambrun and the plushness of Château Grand Ormeau. To varying degrees the other wines felt a little lean and harder edged. You’d imagine these will fill in and round out after elévage, so it would be good to look at them again further down the track.

The highlights from Wednesday’s 2014 tastings were the juicy, appetizing quality of the Pomerols shown at JP Moueix and the depth and breadth of the white wines in Pessac-Léognan. In St Emilion there are some impressive wines [Figeac, Cheval Blanc, Clos Fourtet] but there is some inconsistency – some reds are a little extracted relative to their fruit. The best had bright vivacious qualities, and there was certainly a voluptuous aspect to the set of Neipperg wines shown at Canon-la-Gaffelière. There was plenty of extract, matter and acidity on display amongst the reds at the UGC event held at Château Smith Haut Lafitte. I generally enjoyed the more composed and harmonious – Carbonnieux, Domaine de Chevalier, Olivier, Pape Clément and Smith Haut Lafitte were especially impressive.

Lalande de Pomerol is usually a source of good wine. The appellation produces complex and nicely structured reds, if less fleshy than neighbour Pomerol. The wines showed promise here in 2012 but things are much more disjointed and difficult to judge in 2013. Overall they were a pretty closed and generally hard bunch when tasted blind at the Cercle Rive Droite. Others tasted separately showed better later in the week of tastings. The picks for me are Domaine des Sabines, La Fleur de Boüard, Château Tournefeuille and Château Les Vieux Ormes. Le Plus de La Fleur de Boüard, made from a small old vine plot, is very impressive indeed for the vintage, though it is made in tiny quantities.