It will be interesting to see the 2018 and 2019 vintages in St Estèphe side by side during their evolution. I’ve previously written about the wonderful qualities of 2018 St Estèphe, but 2019 has also produced brilliant wine in the appellation and qualitatively speaking it’s a bit of a photo-finish. The top properties here are profound. They start with a spellbinding effort from Château Calon Ségur. This property has been on a roll in the past decade with significant investment and an ambitious team let by Vincent Millet. 2019 Calon currently offers up a wonderfully beguiling aromatic display and a layered and deep palate. You can drink this now to enjoy the prodigious fruit aspect almost [though it has the balance to age]. Château Cos d’Estournel offers up a creamy blackcurrant aromatics in a cool, pure style. It’s inky and tight on the palate but shows enormous potential. Château Montrose was extremely backward on the day of tasting but there is super concentration here and evident depth, but the wine has most certainly crept into its shell. It needs five years at least, though it appears to have the structure to last a century!

In a warm year St Estèphe is always going to do well. The percentage of clay soils really helps deal with drought and heat extremes, and the proximity of the Gironde river helps ameliorate hot temperature. There is no doubt that this appellation has produced some of the best wines of the vintage. Only four wines from the appellation were shown at the MW Institute’s 2018 Bordeaux tasting [way back at the end of 2022], but they did show two of the possible wines of the vintage. Château Cos d’Estournel is wonderful, full of finesse and poise. It’s currently quite tight and needs some more time, but this is a very refined and polished effort. Château Montrose is monumental. It is beautifully pure and close to perfection. Although the prodigious Château Calon Ségur wasn’t on show at the MW Institute’s 2018 tasting, I’ve been struck by the magical quality of that wine several times. I’ve also recently tasted Château Meyney which has lots of extract and tannin. It needs time but is very impressive.

Five wines from St Estèphe were shown by the MW Institute in December 2021. Château Montrose [pictured left a few years ago during primeurs] and Château Calon Ségur are both knockout, but contrasting. Calon Ségur is flamboyant with opulent aromatics. The wine is plush on the palate but the sweet fruit hides a considerable structure. It’s a case of the iron fist in the velvet glove. Montrose by contrast is all brooding power and depth, with layer upon layer of concentrated blackcurrant and cassis fruit. Château Cos d’Estournel is beautifully pure with lots of energy and life. It will also be a great wine. Behind these three estates that dominate the appellation, Château Lafon Rochet has produced a structured, solid St Estèphe that needs a bit more time. Château Cos Labory has attractive freshness but doesn’t have the depth of the others.

This is a small snapshot of four wines from St Estèphe. I did look more comprehensively at the appellation in 2019 during primeurs and you can read the report here. Château Lafon Rochet continues to develop well. It was fabulous from cask and remains a seriously impressive wine, one of the best of the last decade.  Château Phélan Ségur is polished and balanced, with creamy aromatics and plenty of extract but it remains nicely polished. Château Ormes de Pez felt a little closed at the tasting, but offered up plenty of chunky fruit on the palate. Château de Pez felt a little angular and pinched on the finish, but I expect this will come good with some time in bottle.