There is always value to be had amongst the Haut-Médoc Crus Classés. While these are usually in the £30-35 [$39-$45] bracket now, in top vintages like 2019 they are still good buys. Four were shown by the MW Institute in late last year. Château Cantemerle was looking full of joy with wonderfully perfumed aromatics and lots of finesse on the palate. This is lovely now but will develop well over the next decade I’m sure. Château de Camensac is a property that I’m increasingly interested in. The approach to detail here is impressive and there has been steady improvement here over the last couple of decades since it was bought by the Merlaut family [owners of Château Gruaud Larose amongst others]. This is savoury, thoughtful Bordeaux which has a beautiful seam of blackcurrant fruit coherently running through it. It is already drinking well but has the balance to age. Château Belgrave looks to be chunky currently in a rather tannic style. If you have bought any of this it certainly needs a few more years in bottle, but it usually develops well. The 2010 tasted recently was in good shape. Last on show was Château La Lagune. I’ve had great bottles of this in 2005 and 2009. This was also a little backward on the day, with subdued aromatics but the palate was very textured and satisfying with plenty of mid-palate concentration and some length. It should certainly be very good with a couple more years in bottle, or a few hours in a decanter if broached now.

The MW Institute had three Haut-Médoc wines on offer at their tasting. Château Belgrave delivers a lot of pleasure at a reasonable price. The 2018 seemed to have retreated a bit into its shell and needed a bit of coaxing in the glass. My experience with this wine is that it does age well in the medium term, so I’d give this another two or three years to settle, and it will improve over the next ten years. Château de Camensac has been another good buy for the past decade. This wine has experienced a renaissance over the past fifteen or so years and is worth seeking out, especially in riper vintages. This is a fresh and attractive 2018. Château Cantemerle, a little like Belgrave, has retreated somewhat. Again, Cantemerle offers good value and this 2018 has plenty of extract but currently lacks complexity. It may have opened up since it was tasted [these notes were taken at the end of 2022]. Elsewhere I’ve enjoyed other 2018 Haut-Medocs in the past year, including Château Beaumont and Château Sénéjac from my own purchases. I’ve not taken formal notes but Château Beaumont has lots of bright, juicy fruit tones and Château Sénéjac lots of flesh and texture in 2018.

There’s no doubt that many of the Haut-Médoc 2016s are now hitting their stride. There are a great many wonderful wines to be had at good prices in this appellation which deliver a lot of satisfaction. Amongst the small range shown at the MW Institute’s 2016 tasting at the end of 2021, Château La Lagune, Château La Tour Carnet and Château Cantemerle showed really well. Château Belgrave had a lot of depth and structure but felt like it needed a year or two more at the time of tasting. Separately I’ve since had Château Sénéjac and Château Citran 2016s recently and they have impressed too. The following notes were taken at the MW Institute tasting in December 2021. I hope you find them useful. The wines should have continued to open up and develop nicely since then.

Apologies for the nine month delay in getting these detailed notes up on wines from the Haut-Médoc in 2019. I blame pressure of the day job. Overall 2019 was a very impressive vintage for the wines of this district, and they showed particularly well at the UGCB tasting the November before last. The picks? Château La Lagune was very impressive, certainly one of the best wines here in over a decade and almost up there with the beautiful 2005 in my book. Close by Château Cantemerle has also made a very good wine in 2019. Château Belgrave and near neighbour Château de Camensac in St Laurent [close to the St Julien appellation] were also excellent. The former structured and sturdy, the latter fresh and pure. Château La Tour Carnet is typically lush and flamboyant too. I’m a great fan of Château Beaumont and Château Citran and both deliver fresh and positive wines in 2019. Overall, this appellation is a provider of very good value reds and these Haut-Médoc’s will provide a lot of pleasure for the Bordeaux lover over the coming years at a decent price.