Clearly a brilliant set of wines have been made in Lalande de Pomerol in 2019. There was real consistency shown amongst the wines sent by members of the Grand Cercle. It makes for a great double act with the 2018s tasted last year. They are high in extract and flavour and alcohol but they maintain good balance. Château Grand Ormeau had gorgeous aromatics with lots of seductive ripe black fruit on display. Château Maine Chaigneau Cuvée JS was creamy and sophisticated with real delicacy. Château Tournefeuille was also positive and full, alongside an unctous Château St Jean de Gué. Château La Sergue also impressed with lots of spicy, briary fruit. Château La Fleur de Boüard and Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard were tasted earlier in June. Both are super impressive in 2019.
Half a dozen wines tasted from Montagne St Emilion and Lussac St Emilion in 2019 showed impressive fruit and structure. I was particularly struck by the quality of the de Boüard wines in Montagne St Emilion, Château Clos de Boüard and La Dame de Boüard. Chateau Messile-Aubert also showed finesse and had good texture. In Lussac St Emilion, Château de Barbe Blanche showed plenty of velvety fruit and felt pretty lush. Château La Rose Perrière was intense and spicy, and if it lacked finesse, it had plenty of enjoyable fruit. The following wines were tasted in London in June from samples sent by Le Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux and Château Angélus. Hope you find the notes useful.
There is no doubt that 2019 is an excellent vintage in St Emilion. There are many fabulous wines displaying beautiful fruit, concentration and supple tannins. Alcohols are high – fifteen degrees is not uncommon – but many wines still retain surprising freshness. With potentially high tannin levels, the foot has been held off the gas in the cellar by many properties, showing a more nuanced approach to winemaking here than perhaps a decade ago. It shows how the heady days of over-extraction appear to be behind us in the appellation. If 2019 doesn’t quite have the exuberance of 2018, or the heavenly balance of 2016, it could be seen as a hypothetical blend of the two, or a combination of 2009 and 2010, but without the late picking and extractive practices that characterized that period.
Fronsac has made stylish, powerful Bordeaux in 2019. The quality of this appellation is always high and the top properties here have made a thrilling set of wines. Château Dalem is super serious. It is full of plum and blackcurrant fruit and is inky and substantial. Château de la Dauphine is more obviously lush and glossy. The fruit tones are beautiful and the tannins silky. Château La Vieille Cure is really impressive as usual. With its characteristic spicy Cabernet influenced aromatics, it displays great purity and freshness, but also concentration and intensity. Behind these qualitatively, but still providing much joy, are Château de la Rivière and Château Villars. Both are pretty bold, jam-packed with fruit and extract, and have evidently succeeded in the vintage.