The 2007 vintage is very highly regarded in Brunello di Montalcino. Seven Riservas shown by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino tasted earlier in the year demonstrated power, depth and complexity. Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s 2007 Riserva and Antinori’s Pian Delle Vigne, Vigna Ferrovia 2007 were especially impressive. Carparzo also produced a chewy, satisifying Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and single vineyard Brunello, La Casa.
As with the regular Brunellos, these Riserva wines are 100% Sangiovese but are not allowed onto the market until a year after the regular bottlings, traditionally in the sixth year after harvesting. Practices differ on wood ageing, a minimum of two years is required, a period which may be spent in a variety of traditional Slavonian oak casks, or French oak barriques or in a [often dazzling] combination of the two. The Riserva wines then spend a minimum of six months in bottle before sale.
There is something wonderfully intriguing about the best Riservas. Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s 2007 Riserva is drinking superbly. It has plenty of depth to age further, but I wonder why you’d bother as the wine is just so very attractive to drink now. Carpazo clearly makes mouth-filling Brunello. I enjoyed their 2008 regular bottling and the 2007 Riserva doesn’t disappoint. It has a lot of depth and chew. Their single vineyard La Casa is also full and broad with a lot of depth.
Angeli’s La Gerla was robust and full, Ridolfi’s 2007 Riserva showed elegant, smoky flavours though the Poggio Antico Riserva didn’t show well to me. Antinori’s Pian delle Vigne, Vigna Ferrovia is wonderful Brunello. There’s plenty of complexity here and substantial fruit and length.
Two other Brunello Riservas were shown. Solaria 123 Riserva 2006 was fully mature and decent enough. Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia 2004 Riserva had much more to it. There was maturity here but greater depth and bite alongside the attractive tertiary aromatics.
Below are the full notes on the nine Brunello Riservas tasted at Vinexpo in the summer.
Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva 2007
Red at centre; brick brown at edge; spices, some leather quite piercing; soft entry to the palate; nice and broad; spice, some leather; chewy but with plenty of depth of fruit; spices, roasted meats and a twist of acidity and grip on the finish. Drink now 2020. 90
La Casa, La Vigna La Casa, Caparzo, 2007
Redder, more youthful than Carparzo Reserva; deeper core; warmer, spicier, full; broad palate; ripe and full with depth; chocolate notes; real chew and some grip too. Drink 2015-2025. 90+
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Riserva 2007
Deep and dark looking; enticing colour; lots of complexity to the nose; spices, smoked meats; deep and intense; very attractive aromatics; broad and full on the palate; pretty big and beefy. There is tannin and acid on the end but nothing about the finish is astringent. Very attractive Brunello Reserva. Drinking very well now but obvious power suggests it will improve further over the next decade or so. Drink now – 2025. 93+
La Gerla, Angeli, Riserva 2007
Mid depth; deepish core; warm, some menthol and mint; spicy; good palate with mature notes and mocha/chocolate tones; plenty of stuffing on the palate with lots of chewy material; gutsy but lacks a bit of finesse. Warm finish with spices and tea notes. Drink now – 2020. 88
Pian Delle Vigne, Vigna Ferrovia [Antinori] 2007
Red; warm looking; obvious depth to the nose; broad and chewy palate with lots of density and chew alongside some undergrowth and stalky notes; tea and leather on the finish with a hint of tobacco. Nice grip and acid on the end give an interesting twist. Very good effort. 91+
Ridolfi Riserva 2007
Deep at centre; red/brown at edge; roast beef notes; fully mature to me with meaty flavours and tea, spices and leather. Some elegance here and a smoky finish. Drink now-2017 88
Poggio Antico, Riserva 2007
More red/brown; not that expressive on the aromatics; some spices and a little oak resin. Slightly dirty note on the palate. Not me. Drink now. 84
Solaria 123 Riserva 2006
Mature looking; little loose at the edge; full aroma, spices, leather and beefy tones; warmth; ripe and round and fully mature for me. Drink now – 2018. 88+
Poggio Al Vento, Col d’Orcia, Riserva 2004
Deep colour at core; pretty dense; red/brown at edge; nice mature aromatics with leather, tobacco, spices and undergrowth notes; spicy and mature palate with leather, tea and spies again; warm, attractive and fully mature. Nice bite on the end. Drink now – 2018. 90
Tags: 2007, Angeli, Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Caparzo, Col d’Orcia, Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, Donatella Cinelli-Colombini, Italy, La Casa, La Gerla, La Vigna La Casa, Pian Delle Vigne, Poggio Al Vento, Poggio Antico, Ridolfi, Solaria 123 Riserva, Vigna Ferrovia, Vinexpo