The stable of wines that Stephan von Neipperg commands are tip top in 2022. There is an attractive delicacy and freshness here across the board. The wines from St Emilion – Clos de l’Oratoire, Château Canon-La-Gaffelière and the prodigious La Mondotte – are all very impressive. La Mondotte is exceptional. The work horse in the Neipperg line-up is the Castillon, Château d’Aiguilhe, with 90 hectares under vine. This is a fabulous in ’22 – great news for those of us without deep pockets. It will be one of the great values of the vintage. It is also gives a taste of the great many successes the Côtes de Bordeaux have had in 2022 [more on this shortly]. There is also a tiny drop of zippy, saline white made too. Down in Pessac-Léognan, Neipperg’s property Clos Marsalette has made fresh and juicy red wine in 2022 and a forward, full white for early drinking.

Overall, the range here is outstanding. There is vivid and vibrant quality to the wines. It is worth noting that Clos de l’Oratoire, Château Canon-la-Gaffeliere and La Mondotte are all certified organic. The following wines were tasted on 21st April, 2023 at Château Canon-La-Gaffelière with Stephan von Neipperg and Magali Mallet.

Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Léognan, 2022

Deepish; legs; attractive blue fruits and plum notes; some spice; layered and attractive; fresh and spicy palate; lots of vigour; flesh and vibrant. Attractive finish. Vines on gravel soil. [50% Merlot, 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc. 30% new oak. 34hl/ha. 12.8% alc] Drink 2026-2032. 89-91+

Château d’Aiguilhe, Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux, 2022

Deep and attractive; legs; black and smoky fruits; lovely delicacy; beautiful fruit; plush; saline; lovely entry; very pretty on the palate but this wine has lots of depth; nice texture and firm at the end. Lots of juice and freshness. Lovely Aiguilhe. [90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 30% new oak, 14.3% alc, 35hl/ha]. Drink 2027-2040. 93-95+

Clos de L’Oratoire, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 2022

Legs; deep at centre; bright purple at edge; satin notes; soft; some chocolate; quite ripe style; black cherry; chocolate notes; quite extracted on the finish – bit chewy on the end. Needs to settle but has all the elements. [80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% alc 30% new oak, certified organic, 47hl/ha]. Drink 2028-2043. 92-93+

Château Canon la Gaffelière, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2022

Deepish; purple edge; schist; wet rock; then opens up with vibrant fruit tones; some black cherry; freshness; sinuosity; had schist and rocky notes; some spices; length and freshness on the finish. Lovely balance. A touch less alcoholic than other top flight St Emilions in this year and I enjoy that zap. [50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.2%, 47hl/ha, 40% new oak]. Drink 2030-2048. 96-98+

La Mondotte, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2022

Deep black; saturated; legs; colour tight to the rim; layers of plush fruit; creamy; layered and lovely; very deep and succulent; ripe and layered; feels quite cool; and layered; attractive freshness; plush and concentrated. Fabulous length. Outstanding wine. [80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 40% new oak. 14% alc]. Drink 2020-2053. 97-99

Whites

Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Léognan, 2022

Brilliant in the glass; candy from a meter away; very candy peel and pear drop; quite fat on the palate; lacks a bit of zip but has texture. Will give lots of immediate pleasure on release. [55% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Sémillon, 25% new oak, 12.7% alc]. Drink 2024-2027. 89-91+

Le Blanc d’Aiguilhe, Bordeaux Blanc, 2022

Bright silver; brilliant; some apple; race and zip on the palate; this is very fresh and attractive. Nice length on the end. Seriously good. From a two-hectare plot on the property. [100% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% new oak, 13.5% alc]. Drink 2025-2030. 91-92+