Bordeaux 2014 Primeurs – Wednesday
The highlights from Wednesday’s 2014 tastings were the juicy, appetizing quality of the Pomerols shown at JP Moueix and the depth and breadth of the white wines in Pessac-Léognan. In St Emilion there are some impressive wines [Figeac, Cheval Blanc, Clos Fourtet] but there is some inconsistency – some reds are a little extracted relative to their fruit. The best had bright vivacious qualities, and there was certainly a voluptuous aspect to the set of Neipperg wines shown at Canon-la-Gaffelière. There was plenty of extract, matter and acidity on display amongst the reds at the UGC event held at Château Smith Haut Lafitte. I generally enjoyed the more composed and harmonious – Carbonnieux, Domaine de Chevalier, Olivier, Pape Clément and Smith Haut Lafitte were especially impressive.
The day started with a trip to Figeac – given Indian summer as you’d imagine the Cabernets here have excelled – and this property along with close neighbour Cheval Blanc have made nicely composed, intelligent wines. Clos Fourtet, who held the UGC tastings, has made good wine, along with Berliquet, Canon-la-Gaffelière, La Dominique, Larcis Ducasse and a bold Pavie Macquin. La Tour Figeac was balanced. Troplong Mondot is a typically saturated effort with loads of extract, but it adds up. Later at Château Canon-la-Gaffelière itself, La Mondotte displayed a wonderful satin quality and Castillon Château d’Aiguilhe had excellent concentration.
Quick trip to Petit Village showed the ripe and plump quality of the Merlot in Pomerol as well as fine Cabernet Franc. Gazin, La Cabanne, Clinet, Petit Village, La Pointe and Le Bon Pasteur looked in good shape.
Down in Libourne, JP Moueix lined up a range of thrillingly positive, fresh and juicy wines from St Emilion and Pomerol. The emphasis here is on the vivacious and attractive fruit that 2014 has produced. Top to bottom these were impressive and delicious. The value picks for me were Puy-Blanquet [St Emilion] and Les Vieux Ormes [Lalande de Pomerol] at the less expensive end and Lafleur-Gazin, La Grave, Latour à Pomerol and Hosanna amongst the Pomerols. At the very top end La Fleur Pétrus and Trotanoy were beauties. I left Libourne refreshed and with a spring in my step.
A speedy drive to Pessac-Léognan and the beautiful property at Smith Haut Lafitte confirmed the quality of the dry whites in 2014 here. Different styles of course but I was very impressed with Carbonnieux [very fresh and saline], Domaine de Chevalier, Bouscaut [weighty], de Fieuzal, Malartic-Lagravière, Olivier, Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte. Château Rahoul in Graves also stood its ground with an excellent white. Overall the reds had good texture and material with sappy acidity though there was some variability [a few were a little clipped, some a little dry and extracted] – but I was impressed with Domaine de Chevalier, Olivier [nice Bordeaux] Pape Clément and Smith Haut Lafitte.
I’ll post in more detail on all these wines later…for now onwards.
Tags: Bordeaux, Bordeaux 2014, Chateau Berliquet, Chateau Canon La Gaffelière, Chateau Carbonnieux, Chateau Cheval Blanc, Chateau Clinet, Chateau d’Aiguilhe, Chateau Figeac, Chateau Gazin, Chateau Hosanna, Chateau La Cabanne, Chateau La Dominique, Chateau La Fleur Petrus, Chateau La Pointe, Chateau La Tour Figeac, Chateau Lafleur-Gazin, Chateau Larcis Ducasse, Chateau Latour à Pomerol, Chateau Le Bon Pasteur, Château Les Vieux Ormes, Chateau Olivier, Chateau Pape Clément, Chateau Pavie Macquin, Chateau Petit Village, Chateau Puy-Blanquet, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Chateau Troplong Mondot, Chateau Trotanoy, Clos Fourtet, Domaine de Chevalier, La Mondotte, Pessac-Léognan, Pomerol, St Emilion