Château Laroque continues to go from strength to strength. Director David Suire has now been at the helm for just over a decade, arriving here at the start of the 2015 vintage. He has helped fashion a set of terrific wines on what is a wonderful slice of varied terroir surrounding the property. Laroque continues to be one of the best wine values in Bordeaux. The release price [£117/$150 per six] is competitive with comparable vintages on the market. Frankly, it’s a bit of a bargain for the quality, though Laroque hunters should seek out the 2019 for immediate enjoyment! David Suire describes 2025 Laroque as, ‘Classical, in the very best sense.’ I know what he means.

‘Classical’ was a term often used in the past to describe wines which were correct but also somewhat overly structured. If the term frightens you off – have no fear. In this case, Laroque ’25 is a wine that is classical in a very different, modern sense. Yes, there is freshness and acidity that supports the mineral, briary scented fruit, and the supporting structure is firm but, and it’s a big but, the structure comes from ripe and generous tannin, and not the sort of coarser tannins [fruit and wood tannins] that frequently characterised Bordeaux in the 1990s, 2000s and even well into the 2010s. So, Laroque 2025 is a modern classic.

Yields here were low at the property, [31hl/ha] as the grapes were small, a result of the dry and hot vintage conditions in St Emilion. Laroque itself is a large 61-hectare property and has quite distinct limestone and clay limestone terroirs and also different aspects that surround the chateau. It is also high up. These are useful characteristics in a hot and dry year [and useful in a cooler, wet year too]. It was actually very hot in 2025 at Laroque and, also importantly dry, in May, June, July and almost all of August.

Laroque’s Director David Suire

“This leads to the 2025 paradox,” says Suire. “A bit like us, when we get too hot, we’re not as efficient and likewise with the vines, the conditions, though hot and dry, actually slowed down photosynthesis, and it has kept things fresher. The grapes developed aromatically more slowly, sugars accumulated more slowly and freshness was retained.” This partly accounts for the more moderate alcohols and lower pH [at Laroque the alcohol is 13.8% and the pH 3.4] even in what is a very ‘solar’ year. The rain that eventually arrived helped greatly too. “Rainfall at the end of August into September was actually very helpful. It avoided over-concentration. When it’s hot and sunny the grapes can lose juice and the rain allowed the tannins to ripen fully.”

So, there we go. Laroque 2025 is structured with plenty of minerality and black fruit notes and substantial depth. It is very impressive and I’d expect this to deepen further during élevage. A modern classic as I say.

The following notes were taken on Monday 20^th April at Château Laroque.

Château Laroque, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 2025

Deep colour; glossy in the glass; briary and menthol fruit; genuine depth; some graphite notes too; super depth with evident structure; bright and fresh; with graphite and iodine tones; quite structured feel with nice acidity on the palate; crushed rocks and salinity on the end. Very classical. Structure, density and freshness. Excellent wine. Will need time in bottle but this is deep and thoughtful Laroque. [99% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, alcohol 13.8%, pH 3.4, yield 31hl/ha, 66% selection of the crop into the grand vin, mixture of élevage in barriques [50% new] and larger casks]. Tasted 20/4/26 at the Chateau. Drink 2032-2045. 93-95+