Bordeaux 2019, released in the height of the pandemic in June 2020, was perhaps the last sensibly priced vintage from the region. The quality also seemed great. Early on for me it had the poise of the 2016 combined with the richness and flamboyance of the 2009 with greater freshness. There were scores of impressive wines across all appellations, red and white [and sweet]. With the price hikes here with the exceptional 2022s, the 2019 vintage still appears pretty good value. What’s more the wines are drinking well. In October 2023 the MW Institute put on its annual tasting of ninety top wines and very few seem to have shut down [which isn’t the case with 2018s which have crept into their shells]. The quality too has held up in bottle and the vintage seems to have genuinely delivered on its primeurs promise. So, all in all, what’s not to like about this vintage?

There are beautiful wines to be had across the board. I’ll be writing in more detail by appellation in coming weeks, but here are some abbreviated highlights. In Pessac-Léognan top crus Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion have made impressive wine. In contrast to what I’ve said at the top, these wines are still backward. Château Haut-Bailly is wonderful and is already drinking well, as is a sumptuous effort from Château Smith Haut Lafitte.

In Margaux, Château Brane-Cantenac has delivered another beauty and Château Giscours, after a while in the doldrums, had produced one of the best wines of the appellation. Also at the very top were remarkable wines from Château Rauzan Ségla and a stunningly perfect Château Margaux. It is difficult to imagine a better glass of young wine [except perhaps Château Cheval Blanc, more on that wine further on]. Château Palmer wasn’t shown.

In the Haut-Médoc, Château Cantemerle is perfumed and impressive and Château La Lagune is very expressive on the palate. Château de Camensac also looks good with a fine seam of  pure blackcurrant fruit. In St Julien, great wines have been made at Château Gruaud Larose and Château Léoville Barton. Château Léoville Poyferré has plenty of power but remains monolithic at present. Las Cases wasn’t shown.

Pauillac has produced two of the most impressive wines from Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Château Pichon Baron. These are both close to perfection, with the most dazzling depth and aromatics. If Pichon Comtesse was fractionally ahead during primeurs, now some four years or so on, it is Pichon Baron which is just ahead, being somewhat more open at present, but both are marvellous wines. Château Lynch-Bages is super muscular but not quite up there with its fab 2016. Château Lafite Rothschild is great, with freshness and layer upon layer of blackcurrant fruit, but for me the Pichons eclipsed all in Pauillac on the day of the tasting [Mouton wasn’t shown and Latour hasn’t yet been released].

In St Estèphe Château Calon Ségur is terrific with flattering aromatics and layers of blackcurrant fruit. Château Montrose is closed and chunky with lots of depth but much more reticent than the Calon. This probably needs a decade. Château Cos d’Estournel has wonderful creamy black fruit profiles and a deep palate which is inky and balanced.

St Emilion impressed with a string of wines. Château Pavie Macquin was arterial and concentrated and needs a decade but had exceptional power. La Mondotte had retreated into its shell, but had evident depth. Château Figeac is up there with the best wines of the vintage with exceptionally refined tannins. Château Trottevielle was savoury with freshness and texture. Château Larcis Ducasse was caressing and sumptuous. Château Canon La Gaffelière was lush and attractive [as was sibling Clos de L’Oratoire]. Château Angélus had retreated into its shell and was all extract and chew. Château Canon was also tight and closed and needs time. Château Cheval Blanc was remarkable – what a wine. Soaring aromatics and a joyful and layered palate. It is quite sublime and up there with Château Margaux for wine of the vintage.

Finally, in Pomerol there are some wonderful wines. Château Clinet is as sublime and layered as you would imagine. Château l’Evangile is super attractive and fresh. Château Petit Village and Château Vray Croix de Gay also impressed.

More detailed notes to follow. Overall though, what a joyful vintage that in many cases is already delivering pleasure in the glass.