St Julien in 2019 is a study in consistency and finesse. These have been stylish and impressive wines from the start, but are beginning to hit their stride. Nine wines were shown by the MW Institute back in late 2023. The major omissions were Château Ducru Beaucaillou and Château Léoville Las Cases [normally shown at this annual tasting]. Otherwise, all the top crus classés were represented. The wines from Château Gruaud Larose, Château Léoville Barton and Château Léoville Poyferré impressed the most, but there are excellent wines too from Château Branaire-Ducru, Château Lagrange, Château Langoa Barton, Château St Pierre and Château Talbot. On the day Château Beychevelle was lush and polished but it lacked a bit of grip and freshness compared to the others. The blend at Beychevelle is Merlot dominant, while the other St Juliens tasted were all significantly Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, which might explain this stylistic difference.

The following nine wines were tasted at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting at Vintners Hall in London on Tuesday 31st October, 2023. I hope you find the notes useful!

Château Beychevelle, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and saturated; deep at core; lush and polished; more unctuous than the Léovilles but it lacks a bit of freshness by comparison; blackcurrants on the palate; sweet ripe fruits; feels a little stewed and chewy on the finish. Will settle further on the palate but not quite as fresh here as other St Julien. [49% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 13.7% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2045. 91+

Château Branaire-Ducru, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep looking; spicy, briary notes; quite pure cool blackcurrant fruit; has depth and chew with typical moreish elegance. Will put on more weight as it develops. [56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2049. 92+

Château Gruaud Larose, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and saturated looking; riper, warmer and more fleshy than the Branaire-Ducru tasted immediately before; this has much more evident extract and flesh; ripe; I like this; palate has texture; plenty of flesh and structure; earthy blackcurrant fruit with some tobacco notes; super length. Very impressive Gruaud-Larose. [72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2025-2055. 96+

Château Lagrange, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and saturated looking; fresh and clear blackcurrant aromatics; a little reticent at first; opens a little but more backward than many; good texture and grip on the palate with plenty of fruit; this feels akin to their successful 1996 with more flesh. [80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2046. 93+

Château Langoa Barton, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and saturated looking; spicy, briary blackcurrant notes; attractive; some tobacco, very complete; very complete again on the palate; also has zap and freshness; emerging complexity too. Forward for Langoa that usually needs a fair bit of time to show itself. Good stuff. [67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2049. 93+

Château Léoville Barton, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and dark; opaque in fact; graphite and blackcurrants; inky intensity; very deep indeed; layers of blackcurrant fruit; fresh; super on the palate; oceans of blackcurrant fruit; fantastic texture to the tannins; tobacco notes on the end. This is a steal for the quality – first growth quality in my book in this vintage. [84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2029-2059. 97+

Château Léoville Poyferré, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and dark; close to rim; blackcurrant fruit; intense and resinous, mineral, some schist; inky black fruit; some texture to the palate; bit monolithic at present with some dry tannins on the end. Chewy at present. Lots there, but needs to settle. [67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2029-2059. 95+

Château St Pierre, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Deep and saturated; chalky and a bit dumb to begin with; some black fruits; palate has some flesh and complexity; graphite, blackcurrants, mineral and inky on the finish; nice flesh. Good length. [69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2049. 94+

Château Talbot, Cru Classé, St Julien, 2019

Mid depth; meaty and earthy notes; starting to evolve; opens up to reveal blackcurrant fruit; sturdy on the palate with flesh and grip; this is very St Julien and will develop now. [69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2049. 93+