St Emilion is a large and diverse appellation. There are the well-known limestone côtes that surround the town of St Emilion where some of the finest properties lie, then there are the clay and clay limestone soils found various areas, the gravels [most notably around the Figeac sector] and sandier soils on the lower slopes of the appellation. Then there are variations in aspect, geography and winemaking too. 2019 is an excellent vintage in St Emilion. The wines are in various stages of development however [a result, in part, of the variations above]. Some have already opened up [maybe it’s just that they never closed down]. In this bunch are Château Cheval Blanc [heavenly], Château Canon La Gaffelière [plush], Château Larcis Ducasse [textured and plummy], Clos de L’Oratoire [super flattering] and Château Figeac [a serious beauty]. Others that are closed but can be coaxed out of the glass. In this group are Château Canon, Château Grand Corbin-Despagne, Château Troplong Mondot, Château Pavie Macquin and Château Trottevieille. A few hours in a decanter would do the trick. There are others that feel firmly shut, including several that were stellar during primeurs like Château Angélus and La Mondotte. These still need time.

The following fourteen wines from St Emilion were tasted at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting at Vintners Hall in London on Tuesday 31^st October, 2023. I hope you find the notes interesting.

Château Angélus, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 2019

Deep; some chalk and black fruit notes; has retreated into its shell; lots of chew and extract; spices and blackcurrant notes. Was super impressive during primeurs so I’m sure this will return. [60& Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2049. 95+

Château Berliquet, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Mid depth; chalky at first and feels a little reduced; palate quite open and seems to lack a bit of depth. Not a great showing and evidently closed. This used to impress when the Thienponts made the wine and the property is on great terroir that neighbours Canon. Now under the stewardship of Nicolas Audebert since the property was sold to the Wertheimer brothers who own the Chanel group. [77% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% alc.]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2039. 88+

Château Canon, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Deep; chalky again but opens up; resin and black fruits; quite tight currently; you can taste the limestone and wet rock notes; balanced and fine. Needs some time. [74% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2029-2049. 95+

Château Canon La Gaffelière, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Deep and dark at core; open and lush; quite forward compared to the Canon; very layered and impressive; black fruits; resin; very ripe and attractive; fine; tobacco notes on the finish. This is enjoyable already but has the substance to age further obviously. Textured finish. [49% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2029-2049. 96+

Château Cheval Blanc, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 2019

Deep looking; lovely soaring aromatics; blackcurrants, spices; complex and interwoven; this is a stunning beauty on the nose; primary fruit but revelatory; piercing stone fruits on the palate; joyful palate which is creamy and layered with supple tannin. A beauty. You can drink this now for sure hedonistic pleasure but it has the balance to age effortlessly and build in complexity. [58% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2059. 100

Château Grand Corbin-Despagne, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Deep and arterial; chalky at first with wet rock; inky black fruits emerge; this is currently tight on the palate and needs to unfurl but has undoubted intensity and concentration; tight and intense. [75% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2049. 93+

Château Larcis Ducasse, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Deep and attractive looking; colour tight to edge; spicy, minty and menthol notes with plums and dark cherry notes; lovely palate; caressing and really full of pure plummy fruit; texture is fine and firms up towards the end. Quite serious on the finish. Needs a few years but this is impressive Larcis. Lovely terroir on the sunny Côte Pavie. [88% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2049. 96+

Château Quintus, St Emilion Grand Cru, 2019

Deep and saturated look; spices; plums and black fruits; very open; ripe; textured on the palate but a little chewy on the finish; drying but has the fruit evidently; not my style; alcohol on the finish. [55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc, 15.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2037. 91

Château Troplong Mondot, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Deep looking in the glass, chalky and a bit dumb at first; then opens up with some blackcurrant and red fruit elements; has layers to it and opens up; plenty of black fruits and molasses on the palate; fresher than you’d imagine for a wine at 15% alc. Tannins nicely handled on the end. [85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 15% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2044. 93+

Château Trottevieille, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, 2019

Deep looking; glossy; more savoury on the nose; layered blackcurrants with plums and some spices; very attractive; palate has excellent texture and feels mid weight and has freshness despite the high alcohol; this works very well and is very impressive. Good future assured [at the late Stephen Spurrier might have said] but would work with a few hours in a decanter too. [49% Cabernet Franc, 48% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2025-2049. 96+

Château Figeac, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 2019

Deep and dark; colour tight to rim; lovely pure blackcurrant fruits; very precise and layered; excellent; clean and precise on the palate with very attractive, cool blackcurrant flavours; terrific texture to the tannins here. This is wonderous. Up there with the best wines of the vintage. Fresh as a daisy too. [36% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14%]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2057. 99+