Amongst the star wines from Pessac Léognan on show at the MW Institute last autumn, the quality of Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion should come as no surprise. Both were still pretty backward and need another decade to open up but there was fantastic depth and weight to both. La Mission was fractionally more open, with mouth-watering fruit and freshness. It was forthcoming on the nose with plenty of blackcurrant fruit, plums and spices. Haut-Brion had a significant frame and density but this remains pretty closed. Château Haut-Bailly tasted in between these two really impressed. This is qualitatively almost equal to the two Pessac siblings in this vintage. It has terrific freshness and life but plenty of depth. Give it time in a decanter and you can enjoy this already, but it has two or three decades ahead of it. Across the Pessac-Léognan lineup it was Château Smith Haut Lafitte that stole the show on the day. This property shows great consistency, year in, year out. The 2019 here is super impressive. Plush blackcurrants and plums dominate a sumptuous aromatic profile but the palate maintains freshness alongside layers of fruit and the ripest of tannins. It’s magnificent.

The following notes were taken at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting in late October, 2023 at Vintner’s Hall in London. I hope you find the notes useful.

Château Boucaut, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Mid depth; some leaf and blackcurrant; some undergrowth; lift; resin and blackcurrants on the palate; intense; balanced; lacks a bit of weight on the back end perhaps. Drinking well now. [50% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, Alc 14.5%]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2039. 89+

Château Haut-Bailly, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Deep colour, attractive blackcurrant purity, very attractive with depth; attractive palate with plenty of blackcurrant fruit and savoury tones; structured and mid weight with great balance. Fresh on the end. Needs another couple of years but already drinking well. Excellent wine. [56% Cabernet Franc, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 14%]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2025-2049. 96+

Château Haut-Brion, Premier Grand Cru Classé & Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Mid depth; resin, menthol, some chalk, a bit closed; texture on the palate and weighty extract; despite the ripeness with some mineral and tobacco notes; excellent length on the end. Backward at present. [49% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 15% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2030-2060. 97+

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Deep at the core; healthy looking; attractive nose; blackcurrants and spice; plums and some liquorice; asphalt notes too; layered and very impressive; balanced on the palate if a little closed and needs to open up. Ripe tannin on the end. Closed at the moment but full of potential. Give it three to five years and it will age for forty. [53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2027-2059. 97+

Château Malartic Lagravière, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Deep and bright looking; vivid and intense blackcurrant fruit and resin; quite tight but evidently layered and plush-ish; blackcurrant jam and black cherry on the palate; some savoury notes; has plenty of extract and tannin. Needs a year or two but an impressive effort. [56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2025-2039. 93

Château Oliver, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Mid depth; chalk and coffee/mocha notes on the nose; some blue fruits unfurl in the glass; sappy and inky on the palate with some texture and grip; quite forward with some interest here. Tannin a little pronounced on the finish but this is vigorous wine. [55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2034. 88+

Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Glossy and deep in the glass; plush and plump aromatics; beautiful pure fruit tones – blackcurrants, plums; velvet palate with plenty of extract and texture but caressing sensation overall yet there is evidence of considerable structure too; still needs a couple of years to round out further but this is potentially spellbinding. [59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2025-2049. 98+

Château Couhins-Lurton, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Léognan, 2019

Mid depth; little reduced at first; chalky, some wet rock notes; some sweet fruit beneath; mid weight; nothing flash but good and solid. [95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% alc] Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2033. 87+