The MW Institute usually has a good spread of wines from Margaux on show at its annual Bordeaux event. Seventeen 2019s were on tasting and generally impressed. While this appellation is quite large and covers varied terroirs, the qualitative heterogeneity of the appellation has lessened in the past decade. Gentler approaches in the cellar and better understanding in the vineyard and a move to earlier picking have all contributed to this improvement. There is greater emphasis on the purity of fruit and freshness, and it is evident in the wines in 2019. Undoubtedly Château Margaux has produced one of the wines of the vintage. It is already spellbinding in its aromatics and in its balance. Phenomenal. The line-up was sadly sans Château Palmer and the next best contender, and really not that far off the pace of Château Margaux, was Château Rauzan Ségla. Initially this was less forthcoming in the glass but it opened up wonderfully. Excellent wines has been made once again at Château Brane Cantenac. This property is supremely consistent and their 2019 ranks alongside super efforts here in 2016 and 2018. Château Giscours has put together, for me, its best ever recent wine. It is a beauty with terrific purity. Just behind these are very good wines from Château Cantenac Brown [showing increased finesse over previous vintages], Château d’Issan [full of promise but backward], Château Kirwan, Château Lascombes [full and lush as usual] and a fresh and vigorous Château Durfort-Vivens.

The following seventeen wines were tasted at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting at Vintners Hall in London on Tuesday 31st October, 2023. I hope you find the notes useful

Château Boyd-Cantenac, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Mid depth; deep at core; earthy blackcurrant and tobacco notes; classic Boyd; green peppers; earth; attractive; sweet entry on the palate with more blackcurrant and tobacco notes; good texture with chocolate notes on the finish. It’s a little marked by the oak but it feels reasonably well integrated. Attractive wine with depth. [68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2039. 91+

Château Brane-Cantenac, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Attractive colour; deep and tight to the rim; little dumb at first but opens up to reveal beautiful, creamy blackcurrant fruit which is wonderfully pure and deep; some plum too; blackcurrant fruit again on the palate which is caressing; ripe tannins with super length on the end. A wonderful Brane-Cantenac from one of the star properties in Margaux. It needs a few years or a few hours in the decanter. [70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carmenere, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2050. 96+

Château Cantenac Brown, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep at core; glossy in the glass; chalky at first, little dumb but blue fruits emerge beneath; this feels a fresher style than some more robust recent vintages of Cantenac Brown. Good entry on the palate, structured Cabernet with good extract. Good wine. Needs a bit of time. [68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2045. 92

Château Desmirail, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Mid depth, lightish at centre; soft and easy aromatics; tobacco, rosehips and tea with some red fruits; quite forward and developed which has become the style of this property; easy palate with textured blackcurrant and tobacco notes; more depth on the palate than the aromatics first suggested. Works well. Drinking now. [50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 13% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2034. 88

Château d’Issan, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Mid depth; some earthy, savoury notes at first, opens up to reveal attractive lifted blackcurrant fruit; some asphalt and liquorice; spices; clean entry, blackcurrants, meal notes; has texture and acidity; structured but has flesh. Bit backward currently – needs two to three years further in bottle but will last for decades. [70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2049. 93+

Château du Tertre, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep at core; stalky and a bit reductive at first; pure, stalky blackcurrant Cabernet tones emerge; has grip on the palate; some sweetness to the fruit; quite fresh and high toned overall; has elegance and freshness without being angular; I like this – moreish wine. [54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2040. 91+

Château Durfort-Vivens, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Attractive colour; deep at core; chalky at first but with some blackcurrant notes and spices; little reticent; palate has intensity with blackcurrants and extract; good texture too. Fresh on the finish. Things have been biodynamic for a while here. Quality shows. [90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2045. 92+

Château Ferrière, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Glossy and inky looking; clean aromatics; some chalk and wet rock; a little dumb; reticent at first but blackcurrant notes emerge on aeration. Cassis and some spices too. This wine has depth and minerality; lots of extract and intensity on the palate. Has grip extract and freshness. This is a 2019 to search out. [70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot,. 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2039. 91+

Château Giscours, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deeply coloured; glossy and fresh looking; lovely spicy blackcurrant fruit on the aromatics; layered; fresh; very appetising; really precise focus to the blackcurrant and fresh black fruits; wonderful; beauty continues on the palate; attractive and pure; plums join the blackcurrants; classy stuff. Will age well and up there with the very best in the appellation in 2019. Very long finish. Best wine from Giscours in recent memory. [65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2050. 96+

Château Kirwan, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep looking; dark at centre; chalky, some wet rock and mealy notes; some blackcurrants; fresh palate; nice blackcurrant freshness; quite appetising again with nice zip; good texture too; this wine evidently continues the improvements at Kirwan towards a more textured wine. Excellent length. [59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2045. 92+

Château Lascombes, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep and dark; saturated colour [as usual]; saturated full aromatics; little reduced to start with but quickly cleans up; plush, blackcurrants, ripe plums and black cherry notes; has texture and balance; with some freshness too. Chew to the tannins on the end but these are ripe and integrated. Classically big Lascombes but works as usual. [50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2045. 94+

Château Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Mid depth; beautiful aromatics, lifted blackcurrants, pure and wonderful; ripe and very layered; quite remarkable; textured and deep on the palate; this is really incredibly appealing now but has decades ahead of it. Lovely texture and ripe tannins on the end. Fabulous and difficult to imagine a better glass of wine. [90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2060. 100

Château Marquis de Terme, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep and dark; dark in the centre; some resin; some chalk and wet rock to begin with; fruit and lots of extract; palate nicely balanced with extract and texture; spices and blackcurrants; bit chewy on the finish but this will work nicely. [63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 13% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2039. 90

Château Pouget, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep and saturated looking; lots of undergrowth, tobacco and earthy blackcurrant fruits; like the Boyd Cantenac but less finesse; textured and attractive on the palate; little pinched on the finish. Good-ish effort though. [60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2039. 88

Château Prieuré Lichine, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep colour; some lifted blackcurrants and chalk; savourt tones too; little closed on the palate but plenty of chunky blackcurrant fruit; tannin on the end but attractive length and freshness. Works well. [62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2039. 91+

Château Rauzan-Gassies, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep colour; stalky blackcurrant fruit; has freshness if lacks a bit of intensity; fresh blackcurrant tones on the palate; tannins feel a little lean which leaves it feeling somewhat old-fashioned but this is a good, solid effort. Still this property is not rising to the heights of neighbour Rauzan Ségla. [72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2039. 87+

Château Rauzan Ségla, Cru Classé, Margaux, 2019

Deep and solid colour; little reticent on the nose at first; some chalk and blackcurrant notes build in the glass; enticing and fresh; opens up to reveal perfume and feels layered and inviting; pure blackcurrant flavours on the palate with depth and texture; this is classic perfumed, devine Margaux. Lovely palate overall – best of the Margaux bunch and only just behind the great Château Margaux itself. [62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35.5% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 0.5% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2028-2059. 98+

Best young Giscours I’ve recently tasted