There is always value to be had amongst the Haut-Médoc Crus Classés. While these are usually in the £30-35 [$39-$45] bracket now, in top vintages like 2019 they are still good buys. Four were shown by the MW Institute in late last year. Château Cantemerle was looking full of joy with wonderfully perfumed aromatics and lots of finesse on the palate. This is lovely now but will develop well over the next decade I’m sure. Château de Camensac is a property that I’m increasingly interested in. The approach to detail here is impressive and there has been steady improvement here over the last couple of decades since it was bought by the Merlaut family [owners of Château Gruaud Larose amongst others]. This is savoury, thoughtful Bordeaux which has a beautiful seam of blackcurrant fruit coherently running through it. It is already drinking well but has the balance to age. Château Belgrave looks to be chunky currently in a rather tannic style. If you have bought any of this it certainly needs a few more years in bottle, but it usually develops well. The 2010 tasted recently was in good shape. Last on show was Château La Lagune. I’ve had great bottles of this in 2005 and 2009. This was also a little backward on the day, with subdued aromatics but the palate was very textured and satisfying with plenty of mid-palate concentration and some length. It should certainly be very good with a couple more years in bottle, or a few hours in a decanter if broached now.

The following notes were taken at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting in late October, 2023 at Vintner’s Hall in London. I hope you find the notes useful.

Château Belgrave, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2019

Deep colour, tight to rim; quite closed at first but evident depth; some earth and sappy fruit; quite chunky on the palate with plenty of extract; chunky style with tannins a bit chewy. Needs another 2-3 years. Belgrave usually ages well, developing attractive meaty/savoury tones and peaks at a decade or so. It is part of the Haut-Medoc appellation that borders St Julien, so had some similarity to wines from this district. This should come good. [62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 14% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2035. 88+

Château Cantemerle, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2019

Mid depth; perfumed violet lift; quite attractive with some blue fruits and blackcurrant tones; finesse here; palate has structure and intensity and nicely handled tannin. Extract and freshness with good acidity. Impressive Cantemerle. [68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 13% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2045. 92+

Château de Camensac, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2019

Mid depth; mealy/savoury intensity that is characteristic here, spices some tar, blackcurrant cassis; opens up to reveal a fine seam of blackcurrant fruit; textured on the palate with plenty of fruit; this is very satisfying Bordeaux that is already drinking well. [55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 13.5% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2024-2039. 92+

Château La Lagune, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2019

Mid depth; deep at core; solid on the nose and not immediately offering much; has evident depth but closed; some plummy fruit emerges; nice palate; very textured with satisfying fruit and good extraction; plenty of mid palate concentration; this will be very good as there is plenty to this. Satisfying finish. Just a bit dumb at present. Savoury finish. Needs a couple more years in bottle but should be a lovely La Lagune. [65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 13% alc]. Tasted Oct ’23. Drink 2026-2045. 93+