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Bordeaux 2018: MW Institute St Emilion Tasting

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

A relatively small spread of 2018s were on show at the MW Institute back in late ’22. There is evidence that some of the wines shown were shutting down a little. This was certainly true of Château Angélus, Château Cheval Blanc and Château Fonplégade on the basis of the tasting. Château Troplong Mondot ’18 lies somewhere between its almost over-the-top past and a more elegant future. Under the tenure of Aymeric de Gironde since 2017 it now most definitely driven by the emphasis on finesse and poise, but this ’18 feels a little closer to the former than the latter. Château Figeac is clearly on a roll. The wines in recent vintages here have been breath-taking, but so too is the asking price these days. Domaine Dillon’s Château Quintus has yet to really grab me to be honest. On the showing at this tasting the wine was of almost Zinfandel-like portiness. The 15.5% alcohol is very noticeable.

The following wines were tasted at the MW Institute’s Annual Bordeaux tasting in November 2022. Again, while there has been an eighteen month wait until publishing these notes in July 2024 [!], I nevertheless hope you find the notes useful.

Château Angélus, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 2018

Deep and dark; layered black fruits and spices; texture and depth to the palate; some chew to the tannins on the end. This has closed down a fair bit but has lots to it. [65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2050. 96

Château Chauvin, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 2018

Dark and deep; inky black fruits on the nose; obvious depth; quite correct on the palate with plenty of inky fruit and tannin on the end. [14.5% alc, 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2028-2043. 90+

Château Cheval Blanc, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 2018

Mid depth; earthy Cabernet Franc tones which show finesse; spices; caressing palate which works really well and has wonderful texture. Super length. Not as expressive as some but very attractive texture. [54% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% alc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2058. 96+

Château Figeac, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 2018

Deep colour; saturated to the edge; red and black fruits on the nose; stalky; textured and ripe on the palate; fresh and long on the end. Classical. [14.5% alc, 37% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2055. 96+

Château Fonplégade, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 2018

Deep and saturated; opaque at core; wet rock, schist and resin; quite tight at the moment with evident depth. [14.5% alc, 90% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2043. 93+

Château Quintus, St Emilion Grand Cru, 2018

Deep and dark; very ripe and concentrated; lacks aromatics but evidently big; soft entry on the palate with plenty of extra ripe black fruits; liquorice notes. This is BIG, almost US Zinfandel like! The alcohol is noticeable. [15.5% alc, 72.3% Merlot, 27.7% Cabernet Franc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink now-2043. 91+

Château Troplong Mondot, St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé B, 2018

Deep, dark and saturated looking; plenty of black fruit aromatics; very pretty; palate rich with ripe fruit tones but feels a little ponderous at present. [15% alc, 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2042. 93

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