Bordeaux 2018: MW Institute Pauillac Tasting
Now returning to my 2018 MW Institute tasting notes from a while back. Cabernet Sauvignon arguably reaches its apogee in the Pauillac appellation. There were two great efforts [from the Pichons] in 2018 here, however I feel that overall the wines here are fractionally less consistent than in 2016 and 2019. Château Pichon Baron has produced a thrilling wine, which has great power and depth. Château Pichon Lalande has more delicacy but is nevertheless its equal. Behind these was a strong effort from Château Pontet Canet, a property that has been on a biodynamic footing for at least a decade now. Though some recent vintages have had a few critics complaining about Pauillac typicity here, this 2018 Pontet Canet is full of finesse and classicism. I’m a great fan of Château Grand Puy Lacoste and the 2018 is forward and attractive, though way off their fabulous 2016. Château Lynch Bages is big and bold. It is for the long haul but you get a lot of bang for your bucks here and I expect that to improve a lot in bottle. It needs a decade.
The following notes were taken at the MW Institute’s Annual Claret tasting in November 2022. Yes – it’s taken me eighteen months to finally get the notes out but I’d be surprised if there has been much of a shift in the wines since then. If anything, the top 2018s are developing more slowly than perhaps many of us anticipated for what is a lavish, ripe vintage in many places. That said, that’s not true in all cases, such is the heterogeneity of the 2018s in my experience. Some of the lesser wines feel forward and already mature. Either way I hope you find the notes useful. Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Lafite Rothschild weren’t shown at the tasting.
Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Mid depth; some resin and black fruits; ripe and layered; attractive blackcurrant fruit on the palate but nicely measured and retains finesse and elegance. Good finish. Fine and complete. [14.5% alc, 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2048. 93+
Château Croizet-Bages, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Mid depth; tea, leaf, quite developed aromatics; some blackcurrant; soft and easy on the palate; blackcurrants and leaf again; drinking now. [14.5% alc, 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2023-2035. 86
Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep and dark; sturdy; needs aeration to open up; some resin; blackcurrants and spice; lacks a bit of mid-palate depth; soft tannins on the finish. Easy enough but lacks texture and grip. [14.5% alc, 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink now-2042. 88
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep; aromatic blackcurrants and spices; enticing; depth and texture on the palate with blackcurrant fruit; attractive and forward GPL. [14.5% alc, 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2025-2043. 92+
Château Haut-Batailley, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep looking; ripe and layered; texture and depth if lacking in character. Full and yet a little unexciting. [14.5% alc, 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink now-20-38. 89
Château Lynch Bages, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep and saturated; rich and ripe; blackcurrants; fruit and extract on the palate; tannins quite chunky but sweet and ripe. This needs time. [14.5% alc, 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2028-2048. 95+
Château Lynch-Moussas, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep; schist and wet rock; not that aromatic but has plenty of extract and tannin on the palate; some blackcurrant fruit comes through. Bit chewy on the finish. [13.5% alc, 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2025-2038. 87+
Château Pedesclaux, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep; stony with wet rock notes; some black fruits and inky blackcurrant tones; again solid blackcurrant fruit on the palate; quite solid but has a certain purity. Fresh and ripe on the end with blackcurrant notes and sweet fruit. This works well. [14% alc, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 3%â Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2024-2037. 90
Château Pichon Baron, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep and saturated; dense at core; some cream and satin with lovely pure blackcurrant notes; bold; ripe with lots of extract on the palate with great texture; spices and blackcurrants. Chewy and dense on the finish. [14.5% alc, 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2028-2050. 97
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep and dark; fresh blackcurrant aromatics; opens up wonderfully in the glass; freshness here and real clarity; elegant palate with blackcurrant tones with real succulence to the tannins. Not as bold a statement as Pichon Baron in ’18 but has more delicacy and its equal. [14.5% alc, 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2025-2050. 97
Château Pontet Canet, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018
Deep and dark at the core; ripe and resinous; creamy blackcurrants; layered; real intensity and freshness on the palate; tannins on the finish. This works well. Lots of blackcurrant purity here. [14.5% alc, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot]. Tasted Nov ’22. Drink 2026-2055. 96+
Tags: 2016, 2018, 2019, Bdx16, Bdx18, Bdx19, Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau Batailley, Chateau Croizet-Bages, Chateau Grand-Puy Ducasse, Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Chateau Haut Batailley, Chateau Lynch Bages, Chateau Lynch-Moussas, Chateau Pedesclaux, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Chateau Pichon-Logueville, Chateau Pontet Canet, Grand Cru Classé, Merlot, Pauillac, Petit Verdot