There was plenty of ripe fruit on display in the four bottles of St Estèphe shown by the UGCB last October. I was particularly impressed with Château Lafon Rochet [pictured], showing just how this estate is going from strength to strength. Still Cos Labory, Ormes de Pez and de Pez will offer much pleasure. If you wish to look at my original primeurs 2018 notes and detailed analysis of the wines of Cos d’Estournel click here and for Calon-Ségur click here. In the meantime, I hope to add further notes on additional properties from this appellation now that the wines are in bottle.

Château Cos Labory, Grand Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2018

Deep core; lots of colour; ripe; black fruits; some plummy unctuousness; has depth if not variation; palate has plenty of fruit and extract; sweet and ripe; this is an enjoyable mouthful; plenty of fruit and depth; soft and easy finish. Good if lacking a bit of zap and freshness. Finishes a fraction short in the end, but plenty to enjoy here. Drink 2023-2038. 89

Château Lafon Rochet, Grand Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2018

Saturated look; earthy purple at edge; more menthol and savoury edge; spices; more higher toned and energetic than Cos Labory; has depth and style; full and fresh; has plenty of extract and depth; really full and caressing; like this. Really good palate. Has good purity and length. Bravo Basile Tesseron. Drink 2024-2042. 93+

Château Ormes de Pez, St Estèphe, 2018

Solid colour; opaque at centre; has depth; menthol; black fruits; saturated; liquorice; full; some figs; this has an unctuousness that wouldn’t be out of place in St Emilion; full and deep on the palate; plenty here; bags of ripe, rich fruit; chew and tannin too; has savoury notes. Lots of extract and chew on the finish. Chocolate on the end. Drink 2023-2043. 92+

Château de Pez, St Estèphe, 2018

Deep colour; briary and plum fruit scented aromatics; plump; has fruit and style; good structure and has fruit in the middle; chewy tannins on the finish. This needs a bit of time. Plenty of fruit and extract. Drink 2024-2038. 89