There is certainly a lot of freshness to the wines in Pauillac in 2017. This is not a generous vintage here for me though. There is a degree of austerity in this vintage, and some properties are decidedly on the angular side. The picks? An impressive wine has been made by Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste. It stood out in the appellation at the UGCB tastings last autumn. I’ve scored the other leading properties slightly below GPL, including Château Duhart Milon, Château Lynch-Bages, Château Pichon Baron and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. They have all made good wine but they must be seen as modest in relation to the quality of the wines made at these properties in 2015, 2016 and 2018. Château Batailley is also up there for quality, alongside Château Haut-Bages Libéral and both have made decent Pauillac. I was particularly disappointed by Château d’Armailhac and Château Clerc Milon to a lesser degree. Both lacked middle and felt on the austere side. Château Grand-Puy Ducasse also lacked flesh.

The following wines were tasted at the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux event last October. Hope you find the notes useful.

Château d’Armailhac, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; sturdy; rather reductive initially; blackcurrant fruit reveals itself; little tar; palate has some depth; little lean and angular; comes together but will always be a little austere. Drink 2024-3035. 86

Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; purple at edge; attractive savoury style; some leaf and tobacco with earthy blackcurrant notes beneath; nice entry and mouthfeel; solid in the middle. Fresh finish. Drink 2022-2037. 91

Château Clerc Milon, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; blackcurrant, some leaf; has purity and freshness; palate a little angular; lacks generosity although more flesh than sibling d’Armailhac. Fresh finish. Drink 2024-2037. 89

Château Duhart-Milon, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; earthy blackcurrants and tobacco notes; leafy blackcurrant palate which has a decent middle; less angular than the offerings from the Mouton stable; had depth on the finish. Drink 2022-2037. 91

Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; fresh looking at edge; little dumb at first but then some spice and blackcurrant notes; some savoury blackcurrant notes on the palate; bit angular and lacks flesh and dry finish. Lacks generosity. Will round out but there is a certain austerity. Drink 2025-2037. 86

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; fresh look; clean and fresh blackcurrant aromas; some pencil and graphite; good texture on the palate, this is spot-on Pauillac as usual; complete and well-balanced on the palate. Leafy blackcurrant finish. Most impressive Pauillac on the day. Drink 2023-2040. 93+

Château Haut-Bages Libéral, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; dark core; herbal and spicy; some mint; tobacco and blackcurrant cassis; soft entry; easy palate which works well; saline tang on the finish. Nicely judged in the vintage context. Drink 2023-2036. 90+

Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Grand Cru Classé, 2017

Deep core; voluptuous aromas of creamy blackcurrants, olives and leafy notes; clean palate; fresh blackcurrants; there is plenty of structure, acidity and tannin here but this will work well. Drink 2025-2040. 91+

Château Lynch-Moussas, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Mid depth; little looser at the edge than the last few; sturdy, spicy aromatics; palate soft and easy; some oak still to integrate; little loose on the finish but this works well. Drink 2023-2034. 88

Château Pichon Baron, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Good colour; good depth in the middle; quite broad and bold; savoury tones; fresh, stalky palate with plenty of blackcurrant flavour; the palate is a little angular and lacking in flesh but this is clean and fresh PB. Drink 2024-2040. 91

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Good colour; quite correct blackcurrant aromatics; some pencil; fresh, textured palate with some grip. Leafy blackcurrant notes on the palate; savoury finish. Drink 2023-2038. 91