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Bordeaux 2009 Primeurs: Seductive Haut-Médoc & Médoc

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

 

A brilliant set of wines from the Haut-Médoc appellation in 2009. These should prove great value as many are out-performing themselves and show what a wonderful vintage this is amongst the supposedly ‘lesser’ Chateaux. There’s nothing lesser about the wines though. There is a suppleness and seductive quality that makes these wines so pleasurable already, but at the same time there is real intensity and concentration beneath which is disguised because of the exceptional ripeness of the fruit. I found nothing really loose here at all.

As you would expect Chateau La Lagune, Chateau Cantemerle and Chateau Belgrave are all extremely impressive. Belgrave has made its best wine ever here I reckon. Chateau La Tour Carnet is also a hit too in my notes. But even the other Chateaux are very appealing. It is great to see such voluptuousness and concentration in wines that – hopefully – we should all be able to afford!  And they should drink wonderfully from the start – they are already at just five months of age.

Chateau Beaumont, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Dark and deep, ripe Cebernet nose, slightly stalky; fresh; soft and sweet palate; attractive; perfume – ripe and attractive. Very good. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. 88+/100 Tasted 30th March 2010

Chateau Belgrave, Cru Classé; Haut-Médoc, 2009

Deep inky purple; legs and concentrated colour, tight to rim; sweet and seductive nose; very tight and professional; some cedar, violets; lots of extract on the palate but wonderfully supple and polished. Some coffee and mocha from the Merlot and the oak. Very good wine. As good if not better than the super ’05 here. An estate that is going from strength to strength. Should be super value. 92+/100 Tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau Camensac, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Deep, inky; some beetrooty notes, spicy; solid; palate solid yet also supple; lacks sophistication and polish; Goodish. 88/100 Tasted 30th March 2010

Chateau Cantemerle, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Very deep purple and inky up to edge; very attractive nose; deep and seductive; particularly supple but concentrated; very attractive and very easy but with lots of fruit. Ripe and very good. Some coffee and mocha tones at the back. 90-92+/100 Tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau Citran, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Earthy purple, up to rim; sweet, slightly jammy edge to nose; lots of fruit and raspberry and blackcurrants; palate quite precise; real suppleness again here with intensity; this is really remarkably ripe. Great wine here. The best wine since their sumptuous 1990. Nice finish. 90+/100 Tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau Coufran, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Deep, dark up to edge; sturdy nose; lots of ripeness too; attractive and ripe. Good chewy palate. Lots of guts and material. Good effort 88+/100 Tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Dark; very sweet and ripe; nice lifted note; nice ripeness again here; lovely nose; ripe big palate; little lacking in complexity but big and satisfying. Extract and tannin but will last. Very good 88+/100 Tasted 30th March 2009

Chateau La Lagune, Cru Classé, Ludon, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Deep and dark, tight to rim; ripe fruit notes; really ripe; maybe lacking a little complexity; lots and lots of ripe fruit with new oak tannins; supple palate with lots of ripeness but also concentration so the style doesn’t at all feel loose; tannin at end. Very good. 92+/100 Tasted 30th March 2009

Chateau La Tour Carnet, Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Deep colour, inky; sweet attractive nose; nice oak; seductive and some substance beneath. This could be a great buy. Quite precocious. Intense, serious palate with grip. Very good. Lots of tannin and extract but very good finish. Great winemaking revival here under Bernard Magrez. Could be a real hit. 92+/100 Tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau Malescasse, Haut-Médoc, 2009

Dark, inky, tight to edge; stalky, sturdy wine; slightly green streak; palate similarly stalky and sturdy. Some perfume but also geranium. Bit tannic and dry at the end. Also lacks a bit of interest. 84-86/100 Tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau Greysac, Médoc, 2009

Ripe notes; some stalky elements but ripe and more attractive than the Malescasse on the nose; some smoke and spice behind. Very ripe; palate very full and generous. Lots of flavour, material and tannin. 88+/100 tasted 30th March 2010.

Chateau La Tour de By, Médoc, 2009

Dark, opaque at centre; very soft and sweet ripe nose; lovely and fresh, but also classic La Tour de By. Ripe soft palate, good material and extract. Attractive and supple. Will soften further. Should offer great value. Very good. 88+/100 Tasted March 30th 2010.

Chateau Cantermerle staged the tasting of the 2009 Haut-Médocs

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