I’m a great fan of Moulis and Listrac. In these straightened economic times real value Bordeaux can be had here and the 2009 vintage, alongside some nicely judged winemaking, has enabled the properties here to make some of their best wines in a generation. The wines of Moulis tend to be more polished than those of Listrac, the latter usually a bit tougher and great for a fan of Madiran. Yet with the extra ripeness in 2009, the vintage has tamed the ferociousness of Listrac in particular.
These will all be long-lived for sure, but if you like a bit of vigour, the fruit and the tannin are perhaps best matched in their youth. Chateau Fonréaud, for example, is a Listrac that is great to drink already. The Fourcas duo look excellent too. In Moulis Chateau Poujeaux has produced something very long term indeed, if not quite as showy as it was during the primeur tastings, and it contrasts with a seemingly forward, delicious Chateau Chasse-Spleen. Chateau Maucaillou looks a good buy if you see it about.
Chateau Fourcas Hosten
2009 Earthy edge; deep colour; leafy and lifted; some minty notes with blackcurrants beneath; attractive and open; mid weight palate, balanced and attractive wine this; depth and chew but this is really good. Will last of course but very forward and attractive now. 90+/100
Chateau Fourcas Dupré
2009 Dense and black; thick and deep; some tar and liquorice; thick and ripe blackcurrant; saturated plate in fruit and flavour; big and bold; chewy tannins have settled since primeur tastings. Very good chewy and thick Listrac. 89-90/100
2009 Mid red; nice meaty savoury edge here; full chewy and dense palate – Listrac’s tannins tamed in this vintage; lots of ripe fruit and a great mouthful. 88+/100
2009 Mid red; glossy look; lifted blackcurrants and plums; quite ripe and thick; some tar and liquorice; very ripe, dense and chewy palate; good stuff if a little straightforward. 88/100
2009 Deep and dense; blackcurrants; some leaf but a little closed from its extraordinary primeur self; clearly rich underneath; palate clean and vibrant; some sexy red fruits; this will settle but very closed and tannin today. Will come good and probably deserves a better score but today 90-91+/100
2009 Mid red; deep and dense; some strawberry and red fruits; quite open and sexy for Chasse-Spleen; some undergrowth; very full and pretty open. The first time this estate has reached 14% – but probably not the last. 90+/100
2009 Mid red; thick, ripe and intense; minerals and wet rocks; blackcurrants and leather on palate with some minerals. This works well with lots of spicy, blackcurrant fruit. 89+/100