The barrel cellar at Chateau Léoville Poyferré

St Julien is usually the most consistent and dependable appellation in Bordeaux for reds, year in year out. The best wines in 2007, notably all the Léovilles, have performed as well as you would imagine and Chateau Lagrange has turned in a very good effort. Still this is a sinewy vintage at best, even here. 2006 and 2008 are stronger vintages at similar prices.

Chateau Beychevelle

Good colour; depth and legs in the glass; some leaf, tobacco but a little dumb at first; opens up; blackcurrants, tobacco flavours on the palate; fairly modest body; tannin, structure evidence and lacks middle palate richness. Sinewy effort. 86/100

Chateau Branaire-Ducru

Mid depth; fresh, some stalkiness, blackcurrants beneath; not showy; spicy palate with herbal tines, oak influence and elegance. Again lacks a bit of middle like the Beychevelle. Should round out further but will always remain a fraction short of the mark. 86/100

Chateau Lagrange

Deepish; dark centre; legs; ripeness here on the nose; layers if flavour; feels glossy, plush almost and some oak influence; blackcurrant fruit on the palate with real chew and guts but has sufficient stuffing and guts to fill out the evident structure. Some length on the finish. Very good effort. 90/100

Chateau Langoa-Barton

Deepish; legs; some red fruits, some rasin; almost Italinate lift with resin and dark fruits; ripeness here some spice and layers; this has put on weight; grippy palate; chewy and dense; blackcurrant flavours; feels a bit old fashioned; lots of structure and acid; will settle in the long term but don’t expect the chewy tannins to fully resolve. 88+/100

Chateau Léoville-Barton

Dark in the glass; minerality and depth on the nose; blackcurrants and graphite too but sense in which it is unyielding; fresh blackcurrants on the palate; quite structured wine with lots of bones and pointy shoulders; grip and acid. Dense and needs time. Potentially 91+/100

Chateau Léoville-Las Cases

Deep; some youthful tones at edge; some animal and earthy tobacco notes and ripe black fruits; layers but tightly wound; dense and layered palate; spicy blackcurrants; flesh is here but plenty of grip and structure too. 92+/100

Chateau Léoville Poyferré

Deep core; red fruits, tobacco and undergrowth; attractive spicy notes and polish; feels nice and open and already attractive; palate similarly round and approachable but with sufficient depth and fruit. Not at all hollow as some are. Very nicely handled. 91+/100

Chateau Talbot

Earthy red; some depth; rather stinky, reductive nose initially; blew off to reveal more tobacco and meaty characters but remained a little on the feral side; earthy blackcurrant notes with some tobacco on the palate; meaty but then dips away and feels attenuated. Short finish. 84?/100