Five St Estèphe properties tasted back in October were pretty much in keeping with the appellation’s character as well as the style of the 2012 vintage. Top crus Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Montrose and Château Calon Ségur don’t show at the UGCB, but there was plenty of finesse displayed by Château Lafon-Rochet. Château Ormes de Pez, Château de Pez and Château Phélan Ségur were consistent, with good fruit and attractive harmony. Château Cos Labory was chewy but should settle.

Originally I was impressed by the overall quality of the Margaux appellation in 2012 during primeurs. Last month’s UGCB tasting in London has done nothing to shake the belief that many properties here have, by and large, made a set of enjoyable, reasonably full and delicious wines. There is appetizing vigour and sap in the best but plenty of plush Merlot fruit in evidence too. This variety really succeeded in 2012. It gives a forward and attractive aspect. There is elegance – this is not a set of blockbuster wines by any means – but the balance and harmony is striking. The vintage clearly plays to the virtues of the appellation. Early maturing Margaux for sure, these wines are generally more homogeneous and enjoyable for me than 2006, 2007, probably 2008, and certainly 2011 and 2013.

Moulis and Listrac are two of my favourite appellations in Bordeaux for value. The wines have a reputation for being full-flavoured and gutsy but the top wines have as much finesse as the Haut-Médoc classed growths. 2012 looks to have produced good wines in these districts. Though they are not the show-stoppers of 2009 and 2010, they seem to have more harmony than 2007, 2011 and 2013 and are more forward and immediately enjoyable than 2008 was at the same stage. The stand-out for me this year across both appellations was Château Maucaillou which has produced a delicious wine. Château Poujeaux, Château Fourcas Hosten and Château Fourcas Dupré also look successful in 2012.

The nine wines from Pomerol shown at last month’s UGCB tasting were forward and delicious. It’s a small snapshot of the appellation obviously but there was nice life and zest in the wines shown. Château La Conseillante, Château Gazin and Château Petit-Village led the pack, along with Château Clinet. Château Beauregard, Château La Croix de Gay and Château La Pointe looked very good too.