Day four on the primeurs trail saw me return to the right bank. There is no doubt that 2015 is at its most consistent and impressive in St Emilion. Arriving at Château Pavie, appropriately enough I thought in a Napa Valley-like fog, it was actually interesting to see how they had opted for comparatively modest extraction here this year. Yes there was substance and extract, but also composure across an exciting range. Pavie itself is genuinely impressive, as is Bellevue-Mondotte [quite ravishing], Pavie-Decesse and Monbousquet [much better than its 2014]. I was also struck by the quality of their Castillon, Clos Lunelles. Château Cheval Blanc was up next. Chalk and cheese of course with Pavie. There is wonderful beauty and elegance here in this 2015 offering from Cheval Blanc, which comes from its unique terrior that borders Pomerol. The wine reminds me of their 1985. Pierre Lurton is very excited by the quality. They are comparing to 2010 and 1998, in terms of the dry, yet cool maturity [more on this later].

It was an exciting start to the Bordeaux primeurs week over in St Emilion on Sunday. By the looks of things so far, St Emilion was as good a place as any to start tasting Bordeaux 2015. All vintages have their complexities but perhaps ‘15 seems to favour the right bank over the left in many respects at this early stage. At the Grand Cercle tastings held at Château Bellefont Belcier there were a number of wines from the various Côtes de Bordeaux appellations, especially the Côtes de Castillon, the Côtes de Francs and Fronsac that impressed. It looks like there are many excellent St Emilions to be had in 2015 too. The St Emilion Grand Crus and the St Emilion Grand Cru Classés showed very well indeed. Pomerol showed slightly less well but I will look in more detail at the appellation Wednesday. I also had the opportunity on Sunday to taste the range of right bank estates run by Nicolas Thienpont. They have produced a very exciting St Emilion at Château Berliquet, Château Larcis Ducasse, Château Pavie-Maquin and Château Beauséjour. These are a very harmonious set of wines indeed.

The wines from the Jean-Pierre Moueix stable are invigorating. There’s a zap and bounce to the Pomerols here that is refreshing and my feeling is that they have done extremely well with their 2014s. There is plenty of pretty, vibrant fruit and sappy vigour on offer, wines with a juicy texture and ripe, soft tannins. It makes these wines irresistible to me. Amongst the more affordable Pomerols, Château Lafleur-Gazin is delicious, Château Bourgneuf has depth and texture and Château Plince has attractive delicacy. Further up Château Latour à Pomerol is layered and vital while Château Hosanna is a voluptuous beauty and virtually steals the show. Château La Fleur-Pétrus is silky and delicate and Château Trotanoy substantial.

The satellite appellations of St Emilion – Lussac, Puisseguin and Montagne – performed reasonably well when tasted blind at the Grand Cercle primeurs event held last month in St Emilion. In Lussac, Château de Barbe Blanche and Château La Rose Perrière were impressive, while Vieux Château Palon succeeded well in Montagne St Emilion in 2014. Château Guibot la Fourvielle in Puisseguin St Emilion is also impressive.