In 2013 for Bruno Borie at Château Ducru-Beaucaillou the inspiration was the Pointer Sisters, in 2014 it was Winston Churchill. For him, Churchill’s refrain ‘Never, never, never give up’ epitomised the effort needed in the vintage – though it could equally have described the dedication required in 2013 too. After a mediocre summer, it was, as elsewhere, 2014’s beautiful Indian summer that allowed the grapes not only to ripen fully, but also retain enticing freshness and balance, the result of the cooler than average summer. This is a very strong vintage for Ducru. The wine has beautiful, pure Cabernet tones on the aromatics and the palate. Second wine Croix de Beaucaillou is lifted and vibrant and Lalande Borie offers fresh, enticing St Julien at a more affordable price.
Posts Tagged ‘Bordeaux 2014’
The purity of the wines across the Delon range is always enticing. Château Léoville-Las-Cases epitomizes this purity. The 2014 vintage appears very successful here. This is strong St Julien, with plenty of extract and weight but also freshness. It should come as no surprise that Clos du Marquis has turned in another excellent wine. Fashioned from terroir separate from the great Léoville estate, this is aromatic St Julien with plenty of fruit, depth and structure. Le Petit Lion is satisfying in 2014. It represents 20% of the production of the grand vin, and includes the fruit from younger vines and from older Merlots from the vineyard parcels of Léoville-Las-Cases itself.
Château Léoville Poyferré is one of the most sure-footed, top quality red wines in Bordeaux. The recent run of form here has been remarkable. The property occupies one of the three top spots in St Julien. It ranks alongside Château Léoville-Las-Cases and Château Ducru Beaucaillou qualitatively though, being more keenly priced, it represents better value than both these properties. 2014 is an exciting vintage here. The wine is structured, taut and precise and has formidable levels of concentration. Didier Cuvelier compares it to the 2005 and 2006. This is exciting as Léoville Poyferré 2005 tasted during my primeurs visit is excellent. It is just entering what will be a very long and satisfying drinking window.
Margaux has had a good to very good vintage in 2014. It vies with 2012 as being the best year here since 2010. The quality is not quite as outstanding as it is further north in the Haut-Médoc [St Estèphe, for example has produced wines that rival 2010] but I was still impressed with many of the wines in Margaux for their balance and elegance. Things feel significantly more homogeneous here than in the past in what remains a very heterogeneous and large appellation. Out side of Château Margaux and Château Palmer I was very impressed with Château Brane Cantenac, Château Giscours, Château Lascombes, Château Marquis de Terme and Château Rauzan-Ségla. There are good efforts too from Château Angludet, Château Cantenac Brown, Château Kirwan, Château Labégorce, Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry, Château Rauzan Gassies and Château Siran.