Wine Words & Video Tape

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Bordeaux Primeurs 2022: Côtes de Bordeaux

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

There’s no doubt that the high pricing of many top Bordeaux 2022’s has been a disappointment in this en primeur cycle, regardless of the quality of the wine on offer. If like me you’re looking for good Bordeaux at a reasonable price, then there are definitely some Côtes de Bordeaux to consider in 2022. At the Grand Cercle tasting back in April, there was some variation. A few were rather ponderous and overripe with somewhat chewy tannins. Clearly the heat and drought proved tricky to manage for some. That said several showed really well. These wines exhibited greater freshness and life. My picks were Château Veyry and Clos Puy Arnaud in Castillon, Château Réaut and Château Reynon in Cadillac and Château Haut Bertinerie in Blaye. In earlier notes I have also posted on an extremely impressive Château d’Aiguilhe in Castillon.

Bordeaux Primeurs 2022: St Emilion

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

The St Emilion Grand Cru Classé that were tasted bling at the Grand Cercle press tasting at Château de la Dauphine back in April were sensational. They stood out along with the wines from Fronsac [more on these shortly]. I’ve already published posts individually on a number of top chateaux in St Emilion in 2022.  I’m including these tasting notes again in this post, but I’m majoring on notes and analysis on a further sixteen cru classé and a handful of grand cru tasted with the Grand Cercle. There is usually some degree of variation between properties in any given year. The particular challenges of ’22, in terms of heat spikes and near continuous drought, would also have varied depending on terroir, viticulture and winemaking approaches. That being said, the astonishing thing about the wines tasted at the Grand Cercle was the high consistency. Many of the best wines are weighing in at fourteen to fifteen degrees alcohol [and, yes, it does now seem possible for a wine to achieve balance and weigh in at fifteen degrees] but there is surprising freshness in the wines, delicacy even. And the textures are sublime. So, what were the highlights at the Grand Cercle tasting?

Bordeaux Primeurs 2022: Château Figeac

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

Wow! Château Figeac 2022 is a thrilling wine. The harvest was the earliest in one hundred years of ownership by the Manoncourt family. Director Fédéric Faye describes a growing season of considerable drought and early and long-lasting heat. This is, indeed, possibly the new normal for Bordeaux. Figeac is, nevertheless blessed with terrific terroir. While the famous gravel outcrops here are well-draining, the blue clay subsoil is water retentive. In addition, the vineyard teams did minimal soil work during the growing season, to preserve soil moisture, allowed inter-row plant cover, with no leaf removal and limited the topping of the vines as the season progressed. The early harvest was also taken with an eye to preserving the aromatic freshness and balance in the wines. The results are spectacular. Château Figeac 2022 must surely be one of the most exciting wines of this fascinating vintage. What a vintage to celebrate Figeac’s first year as a Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’. The only likely drawback I can see will be the release price [as yet unannounced]!

Bordeaux Primeurs 2022: Château Larcis Ducasse and Château Pavie-Macquin

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

Château Larcis Ducasse and Château Pavie-Macquin are two of my favourite wines in St Emilion [although I confess to having quite a few in the appellation!]. Both are managed by Nicolas Thienpont and his team, both are quite different. Larcis has a wonderful eleven hectare spot on the sunny, terraced south west facing Côte de Pavie. It is a very solar location. Its wines are typically lush and sensual. They are the classic iron fist in a velvet glove – almost more akin to terrific Grand Gru Burgundy than Bordeaux. They also have a magical ability to age. Château Pavie Macquin is often more obviously powerful and structured. It has more varied terroir with a number of different parcels across the St Emilion limestone plateau. Typically, there is slightly more Cabernet Franc in the blend with a spot of Cabernet Sauvignon too. Both properties have made superlative wines in 2022. There is not a hairs breadth between the two qualitatively speaking, though they as ever they are quite different stylistically. I had the pleasure of tasting both in the cellars at Château Larcis Ducasse with winemaker David Suire who works with Nicolas Thienpont.

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