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Bordeaux 2014: Pessac-Léognan red wines

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

IMG_67952014 is a good to very good vintage for the red wines of Pessac-Léognan. The best have very attractive aromatic profiles, plenty of depth and texture to the fruit, and attractive freshness and acidity. There is a general sense that the wines need to round out and fill in further during elévage, but many show real promise. A few of the lesser properties lack concentration and in a few cases tannins were a little tough. Haut-Brion, followed by Haut-Bailly, Smith Haut Lafitte, La Mission Haut-Brion, Domaine de Chevalier and Pape Clément, have all produced very impressive wines.  Behind these Olivier [especially] along with Bouscaut, Carbonnieux, de Fieuzal, and Latour-Martillac have produced reds of note. Again these wines are often priced competitively compared to wines of a similar quality in the Haut-Médoc appellations such as Pauillac and St Julien. Many, though by no means all, have been released at prices below that of comparable vintages [2008 for example] which makes them worth considering this year.

The following wines were tasted at both the Union des Grand Crus event at Château Smith Haut Lafitte, as well as at the Grand Cercle event in St Emilion. Château Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut Brion, already reported on here, were tasted at La Mission Haut Brion. Château Haut-Bailly was tasted separately at the property, listed in more detail here. Clos Masalette was tasted at Château Canon-la-Gaffelière.

I hope you find the notes useful – the words are more important than the numbers. Scores are a guide to the likely overall quality of the wine, but tell you nothing in themselves about style. Next up notes on the red wines of Graves followed by the cru bourgeois of the Médoc – a generally very successful bunch of affordable wines in 2014 – so watch this space….

Château Bouscaut, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated look; ripe and creamy blackcurrants; chocolate and black cherry; quite taut palate; tight ball of fruit and acidity; sappy finish with some chew. [62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Malbec]. Drink 2019-2029. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 88-90

Château Carbonnieux, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and earthy looking; clean; cool blackcurrant fruit; nicely done; pure black fruits; spicy and fresh; cool entry to the palate with nice fresh blackcurrant flavours; nice seam of acidity keeps things interesting; fresh and lively style. [60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc]. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 88-90

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; earthy red at edge; deep at centre; fruitcake spices; plum pudding tones; ripe; intense and grippy on the palate; lively acids; vigorous and lively with sappy finish. Bit of chew currently. [53% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon]. Drink 2020-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 87-89

La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deepish; vibrant at edge; more blackcurrant; some stalky fresh fruits; prettiness; perfume; elegant and glossy; taut palate; correct; quite grippy at this stage; fresh and lively. Sappy finish. Acidity fresh. [45% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon]. Drink 2020-2025. 87-89

Domaine de Chevalier, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; dark at centre; nice ripe fruit; nicely judged; blackcurrant, some cassis and black cherry; quite voluptuous; little oak; dark chocolate and black cherry notes on the palate; lots of matter; currently some oak to be soaked up on the back palate; grip too; lots of matter; quite big; this will work very well. The comparison here is with 2010 but with more flesh. [65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot]. Drink 2020-2035. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 92-94+

Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep; earthy black at centre; colour tight to the rim; earthy blackcurrant fruit; fraction deeper than La Chapelle; some cassis; spices; ripe entry; full fruit; spices again; freshness again; fresh bite at the end. [80% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc]. Drink 2019-2028. 88-90

Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated look; fat and forward; lush and ripe; liquorice and lifted notes; full and fat; loads of fruit; creamy; black fruits; liquorice; modern styled; extract and guts with some oak tannin on the finish. Should come good though. Drink 2017-2025. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 85-87

Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; dark core; little nutty; solid fruit behind if seemingly a little unexciting; some blackcurrants; little elegant; acidity; not huge degree of flesh; chewy finish; bit astringent. Lacks flesh overall. Drink 2017-2022. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 83-85

Château de Fieuzal, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and dark; ripe fruits; plum pudding; menthol and spices; ink; little mocha tones; dark chocolate; sweet entry with black fruit; dark chocolate notes; extract and some oak tannin to integrate. Perhaps a little forced on the finish but should settle. [65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc]. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 89-91

Château de France, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; ripe blackcurrant aromatics; nice ripeness; lift and freshness; grip and blackcurrants on the palate; more higher toned, acid freshness style; rather dry and puckering at the end. Combined effect of marked acidity [by comparison with the rest] and dry tannin not great at this stage. Needs to settle. Not as ripe tannin as some. [50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot]. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 84-87?

Château Haut-Bacalan, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; dark core; glossy look; tar some pontefract cakes; liqourice; ripe fruit; quite full; full and satisfying fruit; not over extracted but quite big; ripe if a little monolithic; plenty of chew; spice and menthol along with the blackcurrant cassis tones. Good and solid. Chewy finish but not drying. Drink 2017-2025. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 86-88+

Château Haut-Bailly, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Lovely deep colour; dark at centre; earthy purple at edge; very nice Cab; blackcurrant; purity; attractive and fresh; delicacy here; mineral tones; floral touch from the oak; nice entry; substance and matter but proportional; elegance; trace of oak and some wood to soak up a little; nice Cab though; chew and extract on the finish but there is nice acidity. Fresh. Vigorous. Energetic. [66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, yields 43hl/ha, picked September 24 to October 15, 50% new oak, 13% alc]. Drink 2023-2035. 92-94+

Château Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated look; purple edge; smoky; dark chocolate; bitter black cherry; quite taut palate; blackcurrants and black chocolate with bitter tones; very chewy and dry on the finish. Needs to settle. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 84-86?

Château Haut-Brion, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deeper than La Mission; glossy in the glass; vivid purple meniscus; lots of attractive fruit on the nose; earthy blackcurrants; some mineral tones; very mineral Haut-Brion; some smoke; menthol; elegant entry to the palate; blackcurrant and black cherry fruit; chew and density; acidity and freshness. [50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc]. Drink 2022-2035. 93-95

Château Haut-Lagrange, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Very deep and saturated; sturdy but also fleshy fruit behind; some fresh Cab styled fruit with Merlot influence; wet rocks; chalk; sturdy with some spice and life [fresh acids]. This could work OK. Drink 2017-2022. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 84-86+

Château La Garde, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; red at edge; but sat; blackcurrants and clarity; feels good; little earthy note at the edge; big and fat; some toast; thick and saturated on the palate; toast and tannin. Dry finish. May settle. Drink 2017-2023. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 83-85

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; some purple at edge; ripe fruits; some sublimated cassis notes; ripe cherry and strawberry fruits and stalky blackcurrant; ripe; some extract and chew; should settle well; grip here; plenty of matter and chew. [53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc 13.5% alc, TA 3.75]. Drink 2010-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 87-89+

Château Latour-Martillac, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Dark and saturated look; red purple at edge; fresh, stalky blackcurrant; layers here; like this; ripe palate; little chewy and tannic at present but had fresh acidiy and will sort nicely I reckon. Crisp and chewy but has potential. [66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot]. Drink 2018-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 88-90

Château La Louvière, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and dark; creamy blackcurrant aromatics; some sweet oak; spices; attractive and layered on the nose; toasty note and black fruits too; black cherry notes continue on the palate with dark chocolate and freshness on the end. Plenty of elements here – fruit, oak, acidity – needs to meld during elevage, which it undoubtedly will. [70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot]. Drink 2018-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 87-89+

Château Malartic-Lagravière, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; ripe and saturated aromatics; strawberry jam notes; lift; very black fruits and cassis notes; unctuously styled; full and extracted on the palate; ripe fruit but very dry on the finish currently. Needs to meld. [52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot]. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 89-91?

Clos Marsalette, Pessac-Leognan, 2014

Deep and saturated look; tight to the rim; lovely pure black fruits and blackcurrant notes; nice purity here; lovely pure creamy aromatic; sweet and ripe fruit attack on the palate; some oak; but soaked up largely by the fruit; and what nice fruit it is; chocolate and mocha notes on the finish; needs to meld a little more but promising. [60% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 12 ha for red; 40% new oak]. Tasted Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1st April ’15. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 87-89+

Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; vibrant purple at edge; nice depth; spices; layers; blackcurrants; some smoke; good entry; mineral; fresh; acidity present; structured with some flesh; little boney at present; elements need to infill; little puckering on the finish from the freshness and the tannin. [54% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc]. Drink 2022-2035. Tasted 31 March at La Mission. 92-94

Château Olivier, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; fresh mineral tones; blackcurrants; nice fruit and attractive purity; traditionally styled [and no bad thing these days]; good flavour on the palate; very Bordeaux; freshness. Like this a lot. [55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 41% Merlot]. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 90-92+

Château Pape-Clément, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; ripe blackcurrants; some espresso notes; perfumed and creamy; sweet palate but with attractive purity; ripe fruit but no trace of jam [unlike Malartic]; freshness [acidity] too here; plenty of guts and material. Chewy finish currently but should settle well. [57.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37.5% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot]. Drink 2019-2030. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 91-93

Château Le Pape, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and healthy colour; purple at edge; vibrant; nice texture; some floral notes; cherry and plums; texture and matter; some oak initially; substantial but fresh; quite compact; flesh; [40% oak]; needs to settle; freshness and acid. [75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34hl/ha, picked October 6-16]. Drink 2020-2027. Tasted 3 April, 2015 at Haut-Bailly. 88-89+

La Parde Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; nicely perfumed; some delicate and fragrance; quite substantial on the palate; plums some spices and fresh acids; sap and vigour; some chew; fresh and vigorous; spicy finish. [56% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 20% new oak]. Drink 2019-2025. Tasted 3 April, 2015 at Haut-Bailly. 87-89

Château Picque Caillou, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; fresh; blackcurrant; slightly stalky and saline; black cherry and blackcurrant tones on the palate; Ribena note; slightly hard in the middle but will flesh out I expect. Fresh, stalky style. Works OK. [55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot]. Tasted 1 April, 2015 UGC. 86-88

Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Mid depth; slightly looser at edge; bubble gum and fresh fruit/cherry notes; fresh spicy blackcurrant and bubblegum; fresh; acidity; certain honesty here; good texture; mid weight; think this will turn out well. Drink 2017-2023. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015 UGC. 85-87

Château Le Sartre, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Very deep and dark looking; sturdy; bit reductive; some Cab fruit; freshness; acidity; grip; rather dry tannins; fraction extracted or fruit not quite ripe? Cpuld be oak – but rather astringent and dry finish. Drink 2017-2022. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 81-83

Château Seguin, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated look; briary mealy fruit tones; fatness; nice blackcurrant fruit; attractive mid palate; nicely balanced; freshness but also clarity of flavour; nice egelance; blackcurrants and toast on the finish. Nicely done. Drink 2017-2025. Tasted blind Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 85-87+

Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac-Léognan, 2014

Deep and saturated; ripe cassis; some strawberry notes; blackcurrant cassis again; tight palate jam packed with fruit; clean and precise; very attractive fruit tones; nice freshness and acidity on the finish. Plenty of matter on the chewy finish. Will be very good. [62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot]. Drink 2020-2032. Tasted 1 April, 2015. 92-94+

 

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