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Bordeaux 2014: Médoc

Written by JW. Posted in Bordeaux

IMG_68652014’s Indian summer looks to have proved very successful for the quality of the Médoc vintage and its raft of enjoyable crus bourgeois [tasted at Château d’Arsac in photo]. There are plenty of properties to recommend here. It is a vintage that suits the virtues of the appellation. The wines are vigourous, as you’d expect, but also with considerable depth of fruit and concentration. They offer medium term prospects for the cellar [long term in certain cases] but their aromatic complexity and freshness will make them enjoyable early on. Yields are down for some properties, particularly those who suffered from the catastrophic hailstorm of early June. Without a doubt, qualitatively speaking 2014 is the best vintage here since 2010. It is particularly successful for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varieties.

As usual Château Potensac is one of the leading wines in the Médoc appellation. It is on top form in 2014. La Goulée produced by the team at Château Cos d’Estournel also looks very handy, as does Château La Tour de By. It is beautiful in 2014. There are plenty of other Médocs too that are worth considering this year. My top picks would be Château Les Ormes Sorbet, Château Loudenne, Château Les Grands Chenes, Château Greysac, Château Patache d’Aux, Château Rollan de By, Château La Roque de By and Château Tour Saint-Bonnet, which all look good to very good in 2014.

The following wines were tasted variously at the properties listed as well as at the comprehensive tasting held at Château d’Arsac of the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc and those tasted blind at the Grand Cercle tasting at Château Bellefont-Belcier in St Emilion.

Château de Bensee, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated look; earthy blackcurrant notes; attractive; softish palate with some freshness [acid]; black chocolate and black cherry on the finish. Good. Tasted 2 April ’15. Drink 2018-2023. 85-87

Château Blaignan, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Healthy colour; vibrant at edge; solid core; fresh blackcurrants; vibrant; some spice; vibrant Médoc on the palate with nice ripe, blackcurrant fruit; assertive and vigorous; good freshness; grip and sap. Should settle well. [55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot.] Drink 2018-2023. Tasted at Chateau Meyney 30 March, 2015. 85-87+ [second tasting] Deep and saturated looking; ripe fruits; sweet cassis tones; little jam; riper; more black fruits; sweet on the palate; some guts and chew; black cherry and chocolate on the finish with acidity. Good. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. Drink 2018-2025. 85-87

Château Castéra, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep colour; earthy purple at edge; silk and satin nose; some oak influence; sweet fruit; oak needs to integrate; little extracted; gutsy but should settle. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. Drink 2019-2024. 84-86+

Chapelle de Potensac, Médoc, 2014

Deeply coloured; fresh; blackcurrant and black cherry; fruit; nice and fresh with good acidity; grip but also freshness; fraction short but will fill out. Grippy finish. Fresh. Good introduction to the Potensac style. [70% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 30hl/ha, 13.2% alc, 4.03TA, 3.55pH 66IPT, 13.2% alc, 10% new oak]. Drink 2018-2024. Tasted 30 March, 2015 at Léoville-Las-Cases. 86-88

Château Fontis, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep colour; vibrant edge; purple; creamy, spicy black fruits; menthol and oak perfume; spicy and easy palate with some chew but softish. Spicy and easy. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 84-86+

Château La Gorce, Médoc. Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deeply coloured; ripe spicy blackcurrant fruit with some stalks; ripe fruit; chewy; fraction dull on the palate; lacks vitality. Tasted 2 April ’15. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 83-85

La Goulée, Médoc, 2014

Mid depth; vibrant edge; attractive fruit; some black cherry; ripe; black fruits; attractive palate; composed; round tannin; nicely balanced; good texture here on the mid-palate. Has flesh. Good finish. [78% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc]. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted at Cos d’Estournel 88-90+

Château Les Grands Chenes, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Black and saturated look; fat and solid; lots of fruit clearly; soft entry; palate saturated with fruit; little one dimensional at this stage but not jammy; chew and density; bit of spice at the back; full and chewy; not that bad. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 86-88 [Earlier note] Deep and saturated look; some cassis and sour cherry but more restrained; grippy fruit; cool blackcurrants; fresh style; nice acids; some chew and grip. Traditionally styled Medoc. Should settle ok. Drink 2017-2025. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 86-88

Château Greysac, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated; ripe and round aromatics; full; some fruitcake, plum and molasses notes; full yet soft; ripe tannin; modern Médoc; not jammy but not stalky either. Good stuff. Like this rendition. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 86-88+ [Earlier note] Deep and saturated look; black fruits and liquorice notes; soft entry; lots of fruit and matter; oak tannins but not that badly done; modern styled certainly; lots of new oak influence; still there is the chew and depth of fruit to handle the oak. Should settle. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 86-88

Château Haut Condissas, Médoc, 2014

Deep and saturated; melded nose; ripe fruit and oak; liqourice and black fruits; sweet and forward but depth; little VA lift from the oak; soft entry; full; sweet; black fruits; plenty of ripe and lush fruit; will settle during elévage. Full modern styled Médoc. Chew. Drink 2017-2025. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 86-88

Château Loudenne, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; stalky blackcurrant aromatics; black fruits also; appetizing; some bubblegum tones; earthy blackcurrant tones on the palate; soft and supple fruit; excellent example of 2014 Médoc; early drinking but full. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 86-88+

Château Noaillac. Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep; dark at centre; dense to the edge; some cream and black cherry; black fruits on the palate; creamy; oak present but will integrate; ripe fruit and soft tannins. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 85-87

Château Les Ormes Sorbet, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deeply coloured; tight to rim; fresh and stalky blackcurrant; classical; minerals too; palate well done; acidity; ripe; spices and blackcurrants; supple tannin but has structure and acidity. Length. Ambition here. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 87-89+

Château Patache d’Aux, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Mid depth; creamy and quite soft; wet rock and fruitcake tones; nice harmonious palate; soft and silky; not hugely concentrated but well judged and proportioned. Good length on finish. Elegance here – and that’s attractive. May fill in too. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 86-88+ [Earlier note] Deep; vibrant edge; red fruits and some coconut traces; bubblegum fruit emerges; more fruit driven aromatics; fresh blackcurrants and cassis; stalky; grip from the acidity; fresher and more traditionally styled Médoc; grip; lacks a little depth but vigorous Medoc. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 86-88

Château Plagnac, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated; purple edge; spices; bit higher toned; spikey fruit; soft entry; lighter style; easy and soft finish. Drink 2018-2023. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 83-85

Château Potensac, Médoc, 2014

Deep and saturated; dark at core; blackcurrants and graphite; very cool blackcurrants; ripe entry; creamy blackcurrant and black cherry tones; lovely purity; nicely refined; tannins soft and quite supple; elegant. This estate rarely disappoints and is very impressive this year. [40% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot 30hl/ha, TA3.99 pH3.56, IPT 73, 13.25 alc, 30% new oak]. Drink 2020-2030. Tasted 30 March, 2015 at Leoville-Las-Cases. 90-92+

Château Ramafort, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014 

Deep colour; earthy purple at edge; spikey blackcurrants; some undergrowth; little cassis; soft and easy fruit on the palate; lacks a bit of depth perhaps; easy going Médoc that will mature early. Gentle. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 83-85 [Earlier note] Deep looking; pretty fruit; some violet; plum; full; sturdy; blackcurrant fruit; sturdy; matter; gutsy; chewy fruit; lots of matter here; should be sturdy and straightforward Médoc. Has guts. Chew on the finish. Drink 2017-2023. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 85-87

Château Rollan de By, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014             

Deep and saturated colour; purple at edge; lifted; oak influenced but lots of creamy black fruit here; black cherry; extract and matter on the palate; nice gloss and cream; lots of material here – extract and matter. Excellent effort. Amongst the best cru bourgeois of 2014. Should settle really well. Drink 2018-2028. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 87-89+ [Earlier note] Deep and saturated look; full fruit; oak interwoven; liquorice and black fruit tones; density and sweet oak and ripe fruit; modern styled; full and forward; texture and good mid palate; chew and warmth on the finish. Modern styled Médoc. Drink 2017-2023. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 86-88

Château La Roque de By, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated colour; purple at edge; sappy, vibrant and juicy Medoc aromatics; black cherry, plum and blackcurrant; great fun; some oak on the palate but sappy, vigorous and fruit driven wine; this will settle well and is great fun. Vibrant, vivacious and vital. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 86-88+

Château Sigognac, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014        

Mid depth; loose at edge; leafy Cabernet; spices; soft entry to the palate; lighter style – lacks depth with rather easy weedy blackcurrant tones; earthy style. Easy and early maturing. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 83-85

Château La Tour de By, Médoc, 2014       

Deep and saturated; vibrant colour; tight to rim; lovely juicy ripe young Bordeaux; very attractive and joyful at this stage; cool blackcurrant fruit; good grip; and texture; nice acidity and freshness on the end. Excellent Médoc. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. 25% new oak. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted UGC 31 March, 2015. 88-90+

Château Tour Prignac, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated; solid aromatics; black cherry; blackcurrant notes; little cassis; some jam; nicely done on the palate; well judged – fruit ripe, tannins supple; good material. Drink 2018-2025. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 85-87+

Château Tour Saint-Bonnet, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014              

Deep and saturated look; ripe Merlot; fresh and some vivacious fruit; vivid palate; nice juice here; spice and sap too; vigorous and well balanced. Good Médoc as usual here. Drink 2019-2028. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. 86-88+

Château Tour Séran, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Mid depth; ripe Merlot on the nose; full; sturdy; nice balance; good acidity; has vigour but fruit quite caressing; mid-weight; oak integrated [some new oak in sample]; nice chew on the finish. Some warmth. Drink 2017-2022. Tasted Grand Cercle 29 March, 2015. 85-87

Vieux Château Landon, Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2014

Deep and saturated; fruit and freshness on the nose; cherry tones; fresh and sappy on the palate; nice life and vigour. Classic Médoc. Some elegance here too. Tasted 2 April ’15 at Cru Bourgeois at d’Arsac. Drink 20128-2024. 85-87

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